The build is progressing it's a long job front is mostly done both doors work and the windows work about to turn the car around and start on the back. Good luck on your build. Anything I can help you with just let me know.
Joe Sokol
------------------ 85 SE Daily driver with a 3.4 DOHC OBD II 88 Formula/GT 4.9 Allante Intake (My Baby) www.fieroking.com
I removed the foam mold and did a little trimming and fitting for the rear bumper/diffuser today. I only have two layers of fiberglass layed up so far for the diffuser, but I wanted to make sure that everything fit properly. Of course it didn't. Lol. Once the opening was properly cut for the exhaust shield, I found I had to completely remove the center diffuser fin. I'll have to move it forward about 4" to sit in the right spot. Everything else seemed ok, so I'll be able to add a number of extra layers of fiberglass to thicken the diffuser up.
I've started to get the diffuser bondo'd. I didn't want to get heavily into bodywork, but the diffuser is in an awkward position so it's definitely easier to get it as close to finished as possible before re-installing the bumper. Primary bondo coat is on and awaiting sanding.
I also took a little time to prep the tail lights so I can use them as plugs for their housings. I want to make tail light housings that will be bonded directly to the bumper molding making for a nice, secure spot for mounting the lights. The OEM lights are extremely expensive (~$1,000....each....used.... ), so I really don't want to damage by getting fiberglass resin all over them. Now that they are properly wrapped and protected I'll be able to make some nice fiberglass housings.
Now, hooking up the tail lights is going to be fun. They are LED lights, with a 7 pin connector. Of course I haven't been able to find out any info yet on how to electrically connect them. Connecting lights is easy when the lights only contain simple bulbs. LEDs on the other hand need to be connected properly without connecting them with too much power. I can't crack open the lights to check how things are hooked up internally so I'll have to tread lightly (no pun intended) to get them working properly. I anticipate using a PWM LED controller.
I've got both rear-light-housings fiberglassed, with the passenger side separated and trimmed a little. Once the driver's side housing cures, I'll separate it and then attach them both to the rear-bumper molding. The first housing fits the light like a glove. Once the housings are fiberglassed to the bumper, the lights are mounted with three bolts. In addition to being the mounting point for the lights, the housings will also help protect the lights from any road debris coming up from beneath the car.
I managed to get the initial sanding of the diffuser done and then reinstalled the bumper to check the fit of the tail light housings. I discovered that the tail lights were sitting about an inch lower than they should be with respect to the fenders. I had expected to need a little alignment and shimming, but this was excessive. As a result, I'm having to cut, move and re-install the bumper molding framing. Ouch. Of course this also means that I'll have to realign the exhaust shield as well...
The rear bumper framing has been adjusted and re-welded in it's new location. With the bumper just sitting loosely in place, the tail lights are now much closer to their final locations. I will still need to get the bumper properly aligned when it gets permanently installed. I also need to reinstall the exhaust shield and see if it'll need adjustment (most likely).
I was able to get the OEM tail lights lit up properly today. I was a little worried about these since the brake lights and turn lights are LEDs, and without being able to open up the housing, I had no idea how they were connected, just had a bundle of black wires coming out of it... Anyway. I have it all figured out now. The reference below is really for anyone else who wants to hook up the OEM Aventador tail lights. I've cut off the connector since I won't easily be able to get the matching piece. I'll just buy some weatherproof automotive connectors and hook everything back up. The number scheme I'm using matches the numbers that are stamped on the OEM connector...
First off, here's the OEM tail light with everything off.
The first two lights were normal light bulbs, so these were easy to figure out.
The red light on the inner corner... (#1 = 12V; #8 = Gnd) Anyone know what this light is for?
Reverse light (white)... (#2 = 12V; Other wire = Gnd Note this other wire connects into the bundle of LED wires, not the connector. After cutting the wire, I labeled both sides as #7, since it's connected to #7 internally, which ends up being the ground wire)
The rest of the lights are LEDs and need to use an LED driver. The LED driver I'm using uses 12V input, plus a PWM signal to determine the brightness (constant current output). I created the PWM using an Arduino. A few lines of code are all that are needed to set up the PWM signal. I'm only using this for testing, and don't plan on using this in the final set up.
Here's the actual LED driver (LE-LL31XV110 Converter). They are quite small and cheap. I think this one cost me $3 on eBay a couple of years ago.
First two brake light chevrons... (#7 = Gnd; #4 = LED driver output + )
Third brake light chevron... (#7 = Gnd; #3 = LED driver output + )
All three brake light chevrons together... (#7 = Gnd; #3 & #4 = LED driver output + )
The next step will be determining the exact driver requirements to set the brake lights either at their low (marker light) setting, or the higher power brake light setting. I'll post the actual current requirements for each brightness setting later once I actually figure them out.
I've ordered the watertight automotive connectors that I need for all the lights. I'll also have to find a replacement LED driver since the one I was using doesn't seem to be made anymore, and I will need a few of them.
While I'm waiting to get all that, I've switched my focus back to another item that has been holding up the final installation of all the panels. I need to design and install a connection system that connects all the door latch cables to the latch mechanism. This sounds trivial...but of course it's not...
I spent a few days designing a connection mechanism to link the various latch and lock components. After getting a working prototype together, I took a long look at it and tossed it away. I really wasn't happy with it. It was bulky and didn't operate smoothly. I went back to the drawing board and redesigned everything. I've put together the first part of it for the driver's side (seen in the pic below). The first part connects the interior lock toggle to the manual key, and to the lock cable on the actual latch (the cable isn't attached yet). I'll repeat this with a similar piece that will connect the interior door handle, exterior handle and the electric door popper solenoid to the release cable of the latch.
I didn't get much done over the last few weeks (enjoying some time with my family over the holidays), but finally got back to it today. I have the driver's side door latch system almost completed now. Still two things remain...the final linkage bar to the lock control cable and connecting the exterior manual release handle. Unfortunately the exterior manual release handle has been causing some problems. No matter what I do to connect it, it seems to bind. The connector cable should sit next to the interior handle cable, but for some reason it just doesn't work. I'm running out of options with it. I'm also considering replacing the door poppers. I ordered some 45 lb poppers, but they had sent me 100 lb poppers instead. In reality I only need less than 10 lb poppers since the latch mechanism works really well. The large ones are incredibly loud when they operate, so I'm hoping I can find something that is both quite and reliable.
Good lord, that looks complicated. Well done, Neil.
Bob
Thanks Bob! My plan is always to make things as complicated as possible. It actually looks worse than it is as a result of the flash. That sorta makes all the parts of the lock/latch mechanism blur together, therefore making it tough to figure out what is what. The downside in this case is getting this all bits and pieces to work together when there is no "off-the-shelf" bolt on solution.
Almost finished the lock / latch connection system (driver's side only). I added the linkage to the lock cable.
Here's a summary of the functionality:
1. Interior door handle. Connected and works well. 2. Interior door lock. Connected and functional, but cable end needs to be attached a little better to the lock pivot linkage. 3. Exterior door handle (electric release switch on door connected to solenoid). Solenoid (also called a "popper") connected and works well...but too noisy. Will replace with a quieter solenoid. 4. Power door locks (unit built into latch, not seen in pic). System is connected and tested, but final wiring not complete yet. 5. Key (emergency use lock control). Connected, but linkage bar is a little too flimsy. Unlock works well, but linkage sometimes flexes a bit too much when using key to lock door. I'll change to a stiffer linkage. 6. Exterior door handle (emergency use latch release). Not connected yet. 4 different attempts all failed. I may have to get a different handle or cable.
Progress on this has been slow...but steady. Still needs the one connection and a few tweaks, but I'm happy with the overall result.
I replaced the key linkage-rod with a 1/8" steel rod. The original was thinner than 1/8" with a plastic coating that made up the difference; hence was not quite rigid enough when in compression (fine when in tension). The new linkage-rod stays rigid regardless of which was the key is turned...no buckling. It feels nice and solid.
It's been a quiet week. I've been staring at the exterior door handle and may know why I can't get it to work with the current configuration. With the help of a friend of mine this weekend, we cleaned the garage substantially (thanks Craig! ) and then investigated the problem. The cable used for the exterior door handle is made with a solid (i.e. single) cable. It looks like a solid cable is prone to binding in the sleeve whenever the cable isn't straight. Multi-stranded cable (aircraft cable) doesn't appear to have this problem. I'm going to replace the solid cable with a multi-stranded cable (keeping the existing sleeve) and hook it back up using the first connection method that I had rigged up. Fingers crossed that this solves the binding issue.
I'm going to take a short pause on putting together the exterior emergency door handle. The handle/cable I was all set to use just couldn't cut it, so I'm going to redesign that portion of the system. I've ordered a pair of new exterior door handles. Unfortunately I'll have to do some major modifications to get them installed.
Since I've got some time to kill waiting for the new handles, I decided to work on the active vents that are located on either side of the engine cover. These will be automated to open based on the car's speed and engine compartment temperature...and I'll probably add a manual switch for when I just want to look cool. The vents only open a few inches to help redirect airflow through the engine compartment.
I built a small frame that will be bonded to the vent panel (and then fiberglassed to ensure it's properly bonded). The frame is hinged on the outer edge, and moved by a small linear actuator.
Short video of the panel in operation (the panel hasn't been bonded to the frame yet).
I'll try to duplicate the other side later in the week.
The passenger side vent frame is now in place. I had some issues with the alignment. I'll have to tweak both sides slightly when I install the panels. It'll be important to ensure that the panels move in sync, starting and stopping at the same time with the same opening. I'll try to get the linear actuator installed tomorrow, including the rough installation of the wiring and controller.
I started to make the passenger side linear actuator brackets today, but didn't manage to install them. It should be a pretty quick job to get them put in this week. I'll run the cables for the actuators just to get them out of the way, but won't bother setting up the controller until I'm working on the interior. I'll likely install the linear actuator controller in the "trunk" (...that is, the area that used to be a Fiero trunk, since mine is mostly gone). That way I'll only need two wires from the cabin; one that triggers up motion, the other triggering down motion.
Finally got the active vents finished...more or less. The frames and linear actuators are in place, and wired up. The wires are still sitting loosely...they'll have to be routed properly and secured. Eventually the panels will get installed properly as well.
[This message has been edited by Neils88 (edited 02-18-2017).]
Just got back from a week in Tulum, Mexico. I should be back to working on the car this week. I was working on the rear active spoiler just before I left.
Almost finished the lock / latch connection system (driver's side only). I added the linkage to the lock cable.
Here's a summary of the functionality:
1. Interior door handle. Connected and works well. 2. Interior door lock. Connected and functional, but cable end needs to be attached a little better to the lock pivot linkage. 3. Exterior door handle (electric release switch on door connected to solenoid). Solenoid (also called a "popper") connected and works well...but too noisy. Will replace with a quieter solenoid. 4. Power door locks (unit built into latch, not seen in pic). System is connected and tested, but final wiring not complete yet. 5. Key (emergency use lock control). Connected, but linkage bar is a little too flimsy. Unlock works well, but linkage sometimes flexes a bit too much when using key to lock door. I'll change to a stiffer linkage. 6. Exterior door handle (emergency use latch release). Not connected yet. 4 different attempts all failed. I may have to get a different handle or cable.
Progress on this has been slow...but steady. Still needs the one connection and a few tweaks, but I'm happy with the overall result.
I've enjoyed this thread. I'm especially interested in the door lock/handles. My 88 GT has a Testarossa replica body, and the builder installed poppers instead of exterior handles/locks. The poppers are 20+ years old, and not very reliable. I think I'm going to order new poppers, but I really like the idea of adding a "real" working exterior handle / lock system.
I've enjoyed this thread. I'm especially interested in the door lock/handles. My 88 GT has a Testarossa replica body, and the builder installed poppers instead of exterior handles/locks. The poppers are 20+ years old, and not very reliable. I think I'm going to order new poppers, but I really like the idea of adding a "real" working exterior handle / lock system.
Anyway, keep up the great work and the write-up.
Thanks Drewbdo. I still need to install my new AVS poppers. They are much quieter than the original ones I installed. I'll post some pics once I get back to them.
We are required by law to have a mechanical release system here in addition to the poppers...obviously for safety in the event of an accident. The internal mechanical system keeps you from looking silly if your battery dies while you are in the car. I wish there was a better way to combine all these parts, but there really isn't a simple way to do it.
Finally got the active vents finished...more or less. The frames and linear actuators are in place, and wired up. The wires are still sitting loosely...they'll have to be routed properly and secured. Eventually the panels will get installed properly as well.
I've been a little lax in the last few weeks, but finally had a chance to get into the garage this weekend. As mentioned before, I'm working on the basics for the active spoiler. The first consideration for the spoiler is the requirement for a hinge mechanism that lifts the spoiler to the correct height and angle through the travel of the spoiler. The oem spoiler has three positions depending on the speed of the car; 0 degrees (fully down), 4 degrees and 11 degrees.
It is a pretty tight spot to install the hinges under the spoiler, so I won't be able to use something like a trunk hinge...they simply won't fit. However, trunk hinges are built with nice solid pivot joints and so I decided I could modify them to achieve the required structure.
Honestly...this is one of the more complex items I've had to put together for the build.
It takes two Mazda 3 trunk hinges to build a single spoiler hinge...
I created the hinge in a CAD program that allows simulation of mechanical systems to ensure the arm lengths and pivot locations were correct. Here is the final mechanism...just needs a little dressing (grind / sand some rough spots) and then it'll get a little black paint...
The bare metal piece is the mounting bracket that fits onto the rear framing next to the tail lights.
The spoiler will be driven by a slow speed, high torque motor. The tough part will be be duplicating the hinge exactly. This system is dimensionally sensitive, and if I don't get it right then there is the chance that the spoiler will twist as it rises.
That looks like a complex motion. Could you show a second picture with it opened up to the raised position. It looks way more complicated than my decklid hinges. Just curious.
That looks like a complex motion. Could you show a second picture with it opened up to the raised position. It looks way more complicated than my decklid hinges. Just curious.
Bob
Bob, yes...it is complex motion. Unfortunately, simple trunk hinges won't work for this application since they need to be too long in order to get the correct motion and height. Basically, a simple four bar linkage would sit about 3 inches past then end of the car. I couldn't get any pics of the hinge in motion since it's clamped inside the car right now, lol. But I did the next best thing and cut and paste clips from the linkage simulation I made... Hopefully this shows how the linkage functions.
(each square represents 0.5"...and is pretty close to exactly the same lengths as the links in the actual mechanism.)
Since you have two DOF, then you need two actuators (per side)?
Why did you modify the Mazda hinges, rather than starting from virgin flatbar? Did you want a pre-done solution to the pivot points?
The duplication aspect (for left and right) should be easier if making brand-new parts.
Edit: I see it's one DOF upon looking closer at the sketches. I thought it was two, because you mentioned using two hinges to make one.
Good questions. I do have some limited machine shop capabilities here, but from experience I can tell you that making solid pivot joints is tough. It works out significantly simpler to use the existing hinges and simply cut and weld the sections as required (I could have used any similar trunk hinge, I just happen to like the Mazda hinges). If the pivots are at all loose then the whole assembly will have lots of play. That play can increase dramatically when more pivot joints come into play. I can tell you that there is absolutely no play at all in the hinge that I created. The last thing I need is to have the spoiler rattling around. I needed two hinges since there are 7 pivot joints per spoiler hinge and the trunk hinges only come with 4 pivot joints. I will take some time to clean them up and make them look nice.
As you noted, these hinges have a single DOF. The spoiler assembly will be driven by a single motor connected to the "purple link" (one per hinge) in the schematic drawing. The distance between the hinges isn't that far since they both sit in between the tail lights (same as the oem hinges).
Not much accomplished this week, but I did get the pieces cut for the other spoiler hinge. I'll fine tune them this weekend and hopefully get it all welded together.
Two matching hinges built. Next job will be to connect a motor drive bracket to each of them (point that physically pushes the hinge into the different positions), then I'll clean them up properly and give them a nice coat of paint.
It took a lot of tweaking to get them to follow identical paths. I tack welded the pivot joints to the frame bracket, tested it against the other hinge, then ground off the tack weld and adjusted as required. Eventually I got it right. Of course actually mounting hinges to the frame so the spoiler sits perfectly where it needs to be should be tons of fun....
I was planing on creating the motor drive brackets next, but didn't have the right materials handy. I'll have to go do a little shopping this week. In the meantime, I began putting a spoiler frame together. Using light gauge metal to keep the weight down. The brake light will be embedded along the rear edge of the spoiler.
), so I really don't want to damage by getting fiberglass resin all over them. Now that they are properly wrapped and protected I'll be able to make some nice fiberglass housings.
They are LED lights, with a 7 pin connector. Of course I haven't been able to find out any info yet on how to electrically connect them. Connecting lights is easy when the lights only contain simple bulbs. LEDs on the other hand need to be connected properly without connecting them with too much power. I can't crack open the lights to check how things are hooked up internally so I'll have to tread lightly (no pun intended) to get them working properly. I anticipate using a PWM LED controller.
Of course this also means that I'll have to realign the exhaust shield as well...
Anyway. I have it all figured out now. The reference below is really for anyone else who wants to hook up the OEM Aventador tail lights. I've cut off the connector since I won't easily be able to get the matching piece. I'll just buy some weatherproof automotive connectors and hook everything back up. The number scheme I'm using matches the numbers that are stamped on the OEM connector...
It actually looks worse than it is as a result of the flash. That sorta makes all the parts of the lock/latch mechanism blur together, therefore making it tough to figure out what is what. The downside in this case is getting this all bits and pieces to work together when there is no "off-the-shelf" bolt on solution.
The vents only open a few inches to help redirect airflow through the engine compartment.
