i missed this until just now, this is great! i currently have the fiero store rear sway bar on there (which was a PITA to put on and is giving me ground clearance headaches). i'll try to save up some green and get some of these!
I am a real picky guy when it comes to the way my car rides and drives. I am very confiedent that customers will not only be satisified (my minimum goal) but impressed and excited to drive their car again. I know I am. If I have a poor day at work, it all goes away by the time I get home. Heck, now I even look forward to the drive TO work.
These look great, I'll deffinatly be buying some as soon as I get the money. New tires come first though, these old dry rotted ones won't hold the road now, let alone with less body roll.
These look great, I'll deffinatly be buying some as soon as I get the money. New tires come first though, these old dry rotted ones won't hold the road now, let alone with less body roll.
I seen this kit at Fieros at Auburn, the parts and the kit on Pauls car. Its a very nice kit! I plan on getting mine soon as well. Thanks for making parts to make our cars better.
------------------ In loving memory of Harold Hummel (PFF 4WHEEL) 1936-2004
How long are you planning on making these kits? I would like a front and rear for the pre-88, but I only have about half the $ right now. I'd probably be picking up a set in 6 months or so, maybe a little more. Just hoping you will be making them for a while
I'm really excited to say that the trial on the '88 went very well. I tested every position on both front and rear bars and results were as predicted. The car I am using as a test bed is a 29,000 mile '88 GT that one of my good friends very generously let me use. So my comparison is from a perfectly stock suspension to one with my prototype bars. Using the "performance bars" the car felt fantastic and controlable. Much smoother ride than I expected and tight, tight, tight.
I still have tons of paperwork to do and bench measuring of the bars before I will feel comfortable making them for a customer, but I cna say now for sure that I can make them. More details in a little while. Lots of other things going on now as well. Thank you for all of you that have been waiting for progress.
BTW, the rear bar for the '88 will be interchangble with the rear '84 to '87. Unfortunately I was not able to make this happen on the front. That was my goal (in an effort to save people money and minimize the number of parts) but it just was not possible with the geometry of the updated suspension.
This is good news!!! Does this mount in the same location as the factory '88 rear bar?
thx!
-jeff d
They do mount to the same mounting positions as the factory bars. However, to use straight bars, I had to shift the location slightly. I am not sure if it will be in the way of anyone's modified exhaust. Below is a picture of the location where the bar passes throught the rear. Maybe it will help people determine if this is a factor with their car. It also gives a good view of how to keep the arms parallel when mounting them on the splines.
The paperwork progress has been slow. I have had a semi-major problem with my house and have had to dump resources into that instead of the bars (or racecar or other toys). I have basement wall moving on me and it's not pretty.
Also below are pictures of the kits. Again... I am making progress but it is slow.
How would the clearance around the CV boot clamp be on a lowered (1 3/4) car?
I rubbed off my clamp band on my first autocross with the Addco bars on the right side.
Also are the links adjustable so you can weight the corners?
Looks great so far.
I attached a picture below. The arms cross over perpendicular to the steel section of the axle... not the boot or boot clamp. Also, notice that the piviot distance is longer for the arm than it is for the axle (at least on the DS). This means that the gap between the axle and the arm will get larger as the suspension is compressed (or lowered). However on the PS, I am not so certain. The non-lowered suspension performed fine and the end links could be made longer to give more clearence to the axle. I have quite a bit of thread in the rod end bearings from the bolt. Also, the PS arm is not above the CV boot clamp which gives a little more clearence. That answers question #2. You could preload one side if you want. Either by adding spacers to the end link sleeve or by offsetting the arm by one tooth. (48 teeth per 360 deg).
Heck, now I even look forward to the drive TO work.
