. Edit- this is an ongoing development and sales thread. . For the most current information you should read the entire thread. . The newest stuff is at the the end. . So, if your time is limited, read the book backwards.
ABS replacement for stock sealed beam headlamp bucket. CAD designed and Laser cut ABS. Assembled by hand. Very durable construction
I make and sell the buckets. You will still need to purchase the modules as well. I am happy to install the Hella units and adjusters and do so gratis. You will have to modify your harness. I have all the connectors should you wish to hard splice them direct. I also have several complete harness options
[This message has been edited by hairballrm (edited 04-24-2011).]
Off the top of my head, design features of interest are: The integrated lower wind sill. Curved upper edge of side shield has clean appearance when bucket is open. Two lift struts are in line with wear guides on underside of doors.
This form of plastic construction is very burly. Throw this on the ground and it will bounce. (remember to remove modules 1st)
Holy revelation Batman! I think I have figured out what "bump" means
Now that's funny right there.
I'm looking forward to seeing #15. I posted in the other thread about these light buckets as well.
Wanted to thank you for taking the time to make yourself familiar with the forum and continuing to develop this product and offer it to us here on the forum.
I like them! Wish they sat lower though; so basically all you would see is the lights, with VERY little of the black housing above/below the lights... If version 15 is as I just described, then count me in
How sturdy are the seams on those buckets? any chance they would seperate?
I actually changed the way that seam goes together. You are looking at the bucket that went into my car a year ago. This old design has held up just fine. With the new joint, I am confident the base material will fail before the bond does.
I"ll post newer photos after I build my current orders. We do some beam comparisons
[This message has been edited by hairballrm (edited 10-29-2010).]
Doug McKenzie: Yeah. OK, well, uh, we found, uh, this mouse in a bottle of YOUR BEER, eh. Like, we was at a party and, uh, a friend of ours - a COP - had some, and HE PUKED. And he said, uh, come here and get free beer or, uh, he'll press charges.
Bump for a quote As we express our gratitude, we must never forget that the highest appreciation is not to utter words, but to live by them. ~John Fitzgerald Kennedy
Looks like you could trim down those 6060 buckets a bit for a better look i would think give it a lower profile but what do i know. no matter what they look great and will def have to order some after the holidays.
The 6060 is pretty darn low. The rear clearance of the module is not something we should risk. I am in sunny California for Thanksgiving. When I return to Oregon in a week, I'll wash the car and take some glamor shots.
I am back and upon my return there was a care package from 3m. Carbon Fiber Architectural Film. If I am happy with the result, I will offer it as a finish.
PS for those of you that I am building assemblies, I will not ship till we have spoken.
There are many threads archived on this forum that go into detail how do control illumination. I work with electricity by trade, so I haven''t needed to search there.
There are some fundamental things to take into account when doing this upgrade.
1) separate high and low beam modules allow you to run all lights simultaneously on high. This is a huge advantage over dual-beam reflector headlamp systems. The stock Fiero is not designed to do this and must be modified to accommodate the additional current flow. In particular the wiring to and from the headlight switch supplying the dimmer switch and those switches themselves will burn up eventually if you run double the designed current through them.
2) Relays can solve this by using the stock wiring as a signal circuit that will trigger them. The amperage required to do this is very low. The old wiring and switches in your dash are not going to smoke.
3) Power can be fed directly from the battery to the relays. A fuse block needs to be added as close to the battery as possible for short circuit protection.
4) Run independent feeds from the battery and fuse block to high and low relays. This way, if you blow a fuse, you will not be hurtling down the expressway in the dark.
5) A diode jumper between the high and low "signal" wires will keep the low beams on, even when you bright up. There is a way to do this in your dash, but I would rather not officially suggest this modification.
6) High quality components are cheaper in the long run than using junk. Up-sizing wire size is a good thing, but you can go overboard.
PFF is an invaluable resource for anything you ever want or need to know about Fieros. I know there will be a schematic describing all this on a thread.
I might just stand to be corrected. I have been looking in the archives for a thread with a schematic and an explanation on construction of a quad headlamp relay harness. I may have wrongly assumed it exists. Probably, my search keywords lack imagination.
Holy cow, these look amazing! I may have to save up some for a set... So, I'm an electrical novice so is this a do-able rewiring or would I be up poo creek without a paddle?
buckets won't wear on the headlight doors as much as the metal construction. It's also closer to OEM.
I'm glad you brought that up. If you look at a stock bucket there are two high points that ride on the wear pads on the underside of the door. My design has integrated "lifting arms" that are in line with the pads. These arms have "rolling contact" compared to the stock, single "high point". Ideally, this should perform reliably way longer than stock.
