Yes, of course. My day job has me buried. It is so serious I cannot go to PIR this weekend to watch Team Pontiaxed. I have 6060s and 90BH bucket parts going to laser this week. I have final LED appliance set-ups coming as well. Thanks for staying tuned
Did you get the package I sent you? Haven't had much freetime in the past few weeks for junk yard trips. But rest assured more parts will be heading your way.
I am back. I am alive and well and have time to work on headlights. Lately I have been working on a quad Hella set-up that places a 90mm Bi-Halogen next to the 60mm high. Remember that the 90BH is outwardly identical to to the Hella 90mmBi-Xenon. My current set-up just does not have the space to bolt these modules in side by side and retain the low profile. I did, and have available, design a buckets for single 90mmBiHalogens or 90mmBiXenon. Sorry, no glamor shots yet
The new configuration I am working on is a complete departure from everything I have built so far. The fit is very tight and I am not out of the woods yet. stay tuned Rick ------------------ "Now you too can see in the dark." http://projectorretrofit.com/
[This message has been edited by hairballrm (edited 12-30-2011).]
I have been prototyping a completely new bucket I call the "SL". It mounts to the underside of the door, with a second part that pushes the assembly up and down. This will allow me to do two things
1) permit by far the lowest profile yet 2) mount the new 90mm Bi-Halogen (or Bi-Xenon) side by side with my 60mm high beam
Everything looks good and I should be on the downward glide on this. Because I started designing for a very large fixture, all my other modules will fit easily. I will also make a 6060SL and 9090SL
Oh man that's low! What size modules are those? Also I have to say, just when I think you perfected the look, you bust out something new. You sir are a very innovative fella. Also this design will remove all rubbing on the door! On the part that pushes the door you doing like little wheels to remove any and all rubbing/scuffing noise? And how easy does the upper part mount to the door?
[This message has been edited by ZarZ (edited 12-31-2011).]
I have mine set up the same way, I made a bracket and mounted the light directly to the under side of the headlight door. mine lift about 2 inches.
In the pic below, you can sort of see where the the bucket would of been, there is a shaft with a bearing end on it. That shaft rotates up against the bottom the headlight door to raise it, I made it adjustable so I could get them exactly the same. On the end of that prop shaft there are two bearing, they roll onto a flat piece of steel so there is no wear to the door. The whole setup took about a day to build, and it works really well.
Sorry, it's a little blurry lol (cell phone pic)
[This message has been edited by OneQuickGT (edited 01-01-2012).]
ZarZ, I appreciate the kudos, thanks. That is my 6060 set-up About rubbing.. With my current design, there is an upper part to the bucket that has "rolling contact" with the wear pads on the underside of the door. The accomplished goal was to NEVER allow the modules to rub. With the new design, there will be a wearing interface between the upper and lower part. Still working on it. About mounting to the underside of the door.... I am going to bolt to the "web" part of the door hinge. Forward on the underside of the door, I have not got that far. Still working on it
Primiera GT Rapido (OneQuickGT), Most excellent!! Those could very well be the lowest profile pop-ups out there. I met the FieroKing last summer, his were low, yours might be lower. I did an archive search and did not find anyone else who has done this. I find that had to believe. I would rather think that it just that no one has written about it. I'll go to the general section and ask. BTW... What lights are you using? I have a pile of lasercut faceplate seconds with the bolt pattern for 60mm Hella projectors. I love trades. Rick
Hope that someone try's this out, I still don't see why it would not work. Only thing I see is that I can't figure out what it saves, I would think that the same amount of "stuff" would be needed to make them go up/down, so in the end what have you saved.
But again, I hope someone does try. Rob
First reason... Gain a lower profile
My current design basicly mimics the geometry of the stock bucket. What gives it a lower profile is the fact that it is no longer as tall. Hella projector modules that I use are relatively long. Rear clearance as the assembly comes up is a big issue.
The stock door has wear pads which my buckets use as they raise.
Another design issue I have not really talked about is the flexibility of the door. I could make the top edge of my bucket flat across the top. This would give me a lower inboard profile above the high beam. I decided I did not want to go that route because deformation of the door skin might cause aftermarket paint jobs to crack and chip.
The second reason.....I want to build a 90mmB-xenon with a 60mm high beam. The new module is so large I cannot mount the 60mm inboard. Hence, the complete departure from my original design
My current design basicly mimics the geometry of the stock bucket. What gives it a lower profile is the fact that it is no longer as tall. Hella projector modules that I use are relatively long. Rear clearance as the assembly comes up is a big issue.
The stock door has wear pads which my buckets use as they raise.
Another design issue I have not really talked about is the flexibility of the door. I could make the top edge of my bucket flat across the top. This would give me a lower inboard profile above the high beam. I decided I did not want to go that route because deformation of the door skin might cause aftermarket paint jobs to crack and chip.
The second reason.....I want to build a 90mmB-xenon with a 60mm high beam. The new module is so large I cannot mount the 60mm inboard. Hence, the complete departure from my original design
Got it .... can't wait to see what you come up with. I'm real close to pulling out my credit card and upgrading. Will wait until after I get my yearly inspection, in case the state inspectors have an issue with "modified headlights".
Just chiming in to say hi, and that I have seen Hairballrm's setup, and it is impressive. The look is there, and the light output is amazing. Quality stuff...
. Edit- this is an ongoing development and sales thread. . For the most current information you should read the entire thread. . The newest stuff is at the the end. . So, if your time is limited, read the book backwards.
ABS replacement for stock sealed beam headlamp bucket. CAD designed and Laser cut ABS. Assembled by hand. Very durable construction
Mounts Hella 60 and 90mm modules. (sold seperately) DOT approved quartz halogen projector low beam and projector high 60mm and freeform reflector high 90mm.
interested in a 6060 set soon when i get my tax return. Are you able to use an HID kit with them? Im looking at putting an HID kit for lows and halogen highs. Also what would be the cheapest overall price for the 6060 setup with the FTL and rear battery setup?
I assume you are talking about a Chinese aftermarket HID bulb upgrade. Alot of members have done it and are happy. The reality is that HID bulbs in a housing designed for halogen ones is against the law in the USA and Canada. In my position, I cannot publicly recommend this practice. The DOT requires clear configuration markings on the fixtures. That is one of the reasons I use Hella modules.
HID in my view, is cool for several reasons. The available, higher color temperatures (bluer) look cool! Super bright Lower watt per lumin
I have an HID option that I guarantee to be DOT-108 50 state legal, but there is sticker shock involved.
quote
Originally posted by spartan_chaz:
Im looking at putting an HID kit for lows and halogen highs.
Keep in mind, brighter is not always better. What makes my lighting systems perform, is the superior Hella optics. There are so many variables when it comes to forward automotive illumination. You may or may not need side illumination. (cornering lights) You will need to disable FTL (turn your low beams off) when you travel at triple digit speeds in the desert. (provided there is no cross traffic or wildlife risk) This will diminish distracting foreground light and allow your eyes to adjust and see farther downrange.
Lighting level balance between high and low beams is very important. My prefered 6060 set-up has HIR bulbs in the high beams only. It requires an exponectial increase in brightness to get the same amount of light the farther out you need light to go.
kinda like the money vs speedboat rule "double the money you throw in the hole for every 10mph you want to add to your top speed"
I drive windy pacific northwest coastal range roads in inclement weather at night. I run briskly and there are many deer. FTL is very important to me. I used to live in Vegas and I had a liter plus rice missle. I wish I had one Hella highbeam 60mm with a HIR bulb bulb. Dedicated high beam optics rock!
Sometimes I tread lightly around the fact that I am selling high end stuff that comes at a premium price. Here are my complete kit prices:
Buckets, Hella modules installed, plug and play "Y" adapter harness attached, shipped anywhere in the lower 48 6060 $ 485 9090 $ 535 90mm Bi-Halogen $ 577 90mm Bi-xenon $ 1,409 Di-Noc black carbon fiber film add $30 HIR bulbs for 60mm $30 each. FTL dual relay harness for 6060 or 9090 (delete "Y" harness) add $75 Rear battery extension add $10
These buckets come with a lifetime 100% satisfaction guarentee. I have had good results with my international orders. Make me comfortable and I will happily ship overseas.
I have an evolving "upgrade trade-in" policy. For those of you who are my "early adopters", I want you to be able to have the newest cool stuff. Contact me through my website.
do they make a 60mm hid projector, or just the 90s? i only ask because i like the look of the dual 60s much more than the dual 90s.
Jumping in since Hairballrm has personal stuff going on! Hella does not make a HID 60mm projector. You can run aftermarket HID kits on the 60s but they do not meet US or Canada law specs. And as a vendor he CAN NOT legally say yes you can run HID in them, but I'm not a vendor so I will say yes you can, but its illegal. Its just as illegal to put HID in stock headlamps that came with halogens but people do it. Some places with yearly inspections can fail you over it.
quote
Originally posted by hairballrm:
Alot of members have done it and are happy. The reality is that HID bulbs in a housing designed for halogen ones is against the law in the USA and Canada. In my position, I cannot publicly recommend this practice. The DOT requires clear configuration markings on the fixtures.
That being said, people have done it and like it, but Hairballrm has a legal bulb that is called HIR, and is cheaper than HID, and quite bright. The Hella projectors focus the light output making a standard bulb WAY better than stock do to less light bleed into the sky and other places its not needed. They also have a sharp cutoff, if you point at a wall the top of the light is a straight line, this lets them point a bit higher and thus further than standard refractors without causing dangerous glare to oncoming traffic. I would recommend trying the setup with HIR bulbs, then decide on HID after that.
Found this on the net. Shows how much better HIR is than stock, and very close to 35w HID (55watt HIDs have been known to damage some light fixtures according to my google search)
And there is too bright, as previously stated. Imagine being in a bright house then walking outside at night, your eyes have to adjust to see. So imagine something coming at you car not in the light path with the brightest HIDs, you might not see it till its too late. Can also mess with foreground vision if its too bright down the road as Hairballrm stated.
[This message has been edited by ZarZ (edited 01-17-2012).]
Originally posted by ZarZ:Jumping in since Hairballrm has personal stuff going on! Hella does not make a HID 60mm projector. You can run aftermarket HID kits on the 60s but they do not meet US or Canada law specs. And as a vendor he CAN NOT legally say yes you can run HID in them, but I'm not a vendor so I will say yes you can, but its illegal. Its just as illegal to put HID in stock headlamps that came with halogens but people do it. Some places with yearly inspections can fail you over it.
i'm in central illinois, so the inspections don't affect me.
quote
Originally posted by ZarZ:That being said, people have done it and like it, but Hairballrm has a legal bulb that is called HIR, and is cheaper than HID, and quite bright. The Hella projectors focus the light output making a standard bulb WAY better than stock do to less light bleed into the sky and other places its not needed. They also have a sharp cutoff, if you point at a wall the top of the light is a straight line, this lets them point a bit higher and thus further than standard refractors without causing dangerous glare to oncoming traffic. I would recommend trying the setup with HIR bulbs, then decide on HID after that.
Found this on the net. Shows how much better HIR is than stock, and very close to 35w HID (55watt HIDs have been known to damage some light fixtures according to my google search)
And there is too bright, as previously stated. Imagine being in a bright house then walking outside at night, your eyes have to adjust to see. So imagine something coming at you car not in the light path with the brightest HIDs, you might not see it till its too late. Can also mess with foreground vision if its too bright down the road as Hairballrm stated.
i feel bad now that you went out and found all of these stats and figures. lol... i do want HIDs for the increased/directed light output, but i also want them because i want the blue-tinted headlights that some of the higher kelvin (?) numbers have.
[This message has been edited by Gixxer Quad (edited 01-14-2012).]
Let me give you guys an off road example. A co-worker of mine is into jeeps. He installed actual aircraft landing lights. I believe they are 500 watts each. He said they are waaaaaay too bright to bumper mount and run on the sand dunes. All he could see was blinding whiteness right in front of him. The roll bar was okay and he added a small shield to shade his own hood. In case you are wondering, He had a larger alternator, a second isolated battery, and really big wire!
If you have not noticed, I am a huge fan of the 60mm Hella lights I install. Being American, I had not considered the limitation that the low beams are not available for right hand drive. Hella does however make a "clockable" 90mm projector module H7 Low-beam, ECE. . These (for our British brethren) are referred to as "tourist lights" If you put your car on a train or boat and cross the channel, when you get there you can reconfigure your low beam lights to drive on the other side of the road.
Europeans can help me out here. Question: Is it only the french that require a "city light" in the high beams? I am assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that this is not required down under.
Here is where going with this. The 60mm low beam is optically superior to the 90mm low beam. But you nice folks in Australia and Britain cannot use this light. Sorry. Both the 60mm high and low beam modules are e-code and DOT compliant. There is even a 60mm high beam with a "city light" available. With HIR bulbs, these dedicated high beams rock. I can easily produce 9060 bucket (90low60high) Does this interest anyone?
I prefer selling my buckets loaded with modules. I stock modules and harness components for my American customers who need complete turn-key kits. For those of you overseas I think you will save money if you source your modules locally. Lighter, smaller box and more importantly less import duty. As always, I'd be happy to walk you through the installation.
There is another reason I prefer you to source your lights locally. I guarantee my stuff to be 50state legal in the USA I am not familiar with compliance to European or Australian law. Your local Hella dealer will be.
If so, I am flattered, but Amy might not like it. 
