Monday bump! Below is the pricing summary so you don't have to check other pages for it.
Pricing Summary: All prices shipped for US and Canadian addresses unless noted.
Hardware Kit only – Front:.....................$150 Front Only w/ plain rotors:.....................$225 (+$35 shipping surcharge to Canada) Front Only w/ Drilled/Slotted/Zinc Rotors:.$300 (+$35 to Canada) Hardware Kit Only – full car:...................$350 Full Kit with Plain Rotors:.......................$565 (+$70 to Canada) Full Kit with Drilled/Slotted/Zinc Rotors:....$640 (+$70 to Canada)
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 01-14-2013).]
How does this change the way the car feels going over bumps. I have 18 inch wheels and poly suspension and the ride is bad in towns
It doesn't cause any noticeable change in road harshness. I have the kit on 2 of my personal cars and haven't noticed any increase in road harshness, nor have I received any feedback on a change in road harshness from any of the people running the kit.
Large wheels, low profile tires and poly bushings have a much greater impact on road harshness, which is why you probably noticed the change with those parts. If you have poly bushings in the two rear trailing links, replacing them with rubber will help reduce road harshness w/o any impact in cornering ability.
Can someone who has a car lowered on 1" lowering balljoints with this brake kit comment on how much they needed to grind the control arms to clear at full compression, full lock?
I have 12" C4 rotors right now and I've almost ground the nose off control arm and it still rubs in tight hairpins. Before the lowering balljoints it was OK with the 1/8" I had ground off.
I'm considering this kit just to eliminate the interference though I hate to take the hit on weight.
[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 07-31-2013).]
FieroMaster88 is the only one I am aware of that installed this kit with Rodney's lowering ball joints. He did have to do some clearancing to the lower a-arm nose and I think he just recently removed the lowering ball joints and went back stock.
My rotors are .090" shallower (back side of hat to inboard surface of the rotor) than the C4 front rotors so they will give you more clearance with the lowering ball joints (zero interference issues with stock ball joints).
You could put a .090" spacer between the hub flange and the rotor hat with the C4 setup to check for interference issues. However, with worn rotors the clearance will be over stated vs. new. The .090" dimension is from 2 new rotors.
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 07-31-2013).]
I have the held motorsport A Arm conversion on mine. Any issues that you know of? Pm me with price of complete setup slotted/drilled /zink roters to 97045. Thanks.
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[This message has been edited by WMac (edited 08-08-2013).]
I have the held motorsport A Arm conversion on mine. Any issues that you know of? Pm me with price of complete setup slotted/drilled /zink roters to 97045. Thanks.
Can you send me a picture of the nose of the lower A-arm? I had a guy looking into purchasing a kit for use with the Held setup and he was having interference issues with trying to get the C4 (12" kit to work). I gave him the info on how to mockup the C4 rotor to check for clearance to my rotor, but never heard back. My assumption at this point is that my kit will not work with the Held tubular lower control arm.
