I'm interested in your 13" brake rotor upgrade, but was wondering if there were any rotors that I could use for the Grand Prix 115 bolt pattern? I didn't want to drill a set of rotors if I didn't have to, so I could get a cleaner look.
I'm interested in your 13" brake rotor upgrade, but was wondering if there were any rotors that I could use for the Grand Prix 115 bolt pattern? I didn't want to drill a set of rotors if I didn't have to, so I could get a cleaner look.
Only one make/model rotor works with my kit and they only come in the stock 6 bolt wheel pattern. I can drill them to the 5x115 pattern if that's what you need. Once the wheels are installed, on most wheels you can't see the original bolt pattern on them.
Below is the pricing summary so you don't have to check other pages for it.
Pricing Summary: All prices shipped for US and Canadian addresses unless noted.
Hardware Kit only – Front:.....................$150 Front Only w/ plain rotors:.....................$225 (+$35 shipping surcharge to Canada) Front Only w/ Drilled/Slotted/Zinc Rotors:.$300 (+$35 to Canada) Hardware Kit Only – full car:...................$350 Full Kit with Plain Rotors:.......................$565 (+$70 to Canada) Full Kit with Drilled/Slotted/Zinc Rotors:....$640 (+$70 to Canada)
If you are running a non-stock wheel pattern, I can drill the supplied rotors to either the 5 x 4 3/4" or 5 x 114.3mm patterns and modify the concentric rings... at no additional charge.
Edit: Here is a picture of the rotors that that I have been using for the last 6 months:
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 12-25-2013).]
Correct, the kit fits w/o issue on 17's and larger. I have the kit installed on my 16's for both of my personal cars, but had to do some clearance work on the caliper for them to fit.
I have 17x7.5 inch rims on my car and have it dropped one inch from springs from the Fiero store... I plan on buying Rodney dickmans 1 inch lowering ball joints too.
is there going to be a clearance issue with this setup
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Power Tour Long Haul 2009, 10 (muscle car) Power Tour Long Haul 2011, 12 (Fiero) Power Tour 3 stops 2013(Fiero)
Originally posted by ltlgt88: I have 17x7.5 inch rims on my car and have it dropped one inch from springs from the Fiero store... I plan on buying Rodney dickmans 1 inch lowering ball joints too.
is there going to be a clearance issue with this setup
Good question because I'd like to invest in this upgrade soon. I already have Rodney's lowering 1 inch ball joints. If I decide to get lowering springs down the road will there be issues?
I have 17x7.5 inch rims on my car and have it dropped one inch from springs from the Fiero store... I plan on buying Rodney dickmans 1 inch lowering ball joints too.
is there going to be a clearance issue with this setup
The short answer is Yes, there will be interference between the lower a-arm nose and the backside of the rotor with the combination of lowering springs and Rodneys lowering ball joints. My recommendation would be just use shorter springs vs. the lowering ball joints as there is little geometry difference between the two methods.
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Originally posted by Gokart: Good question because I'd like to invest in this upgrade soon. I already have Rodney's lowering 1 inch ball joints. If I decide to get lowering springs down the road will there be issues?
I am not aware of anyone installing my kit on a car with stock springs and Rodney's lowering ball joints. I suspect that it would fit without clearance issues, but when I get home I can send you the clearance you must have to the stock 88 rotor backside to have room for my 13" kit. The challenge is this distance would need to be measured with the car resting on the bump stops as the risk for interference is at maximum suspension compression.
The short answer is Yes, there will be interference between the lower a-arm nose and the backside of the rotor with the combination of lowering springs and Rodneys lowering ball joints. My recommendation would be just use shorter springs vs. the lowering ball joints as there is little geometry difference between the two methods.
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Originally posted by fieroguru: I am not aware of anyone installing my kit on a car with stock springs and Rodney's lowering ball joints. I suspect that it would fit without clearance issues, but when I get home I can send you the clearance you must have to the stock 88 rotor backside to have room for my 13" kit. The challenge is this distance would need to be measured with the car resting on the bump stops as the risk for interference is at maximum suspension compression.
So in the long run you are saying that there will NOT be interference WITH the lowering springs and NOT WITH the lowering ball joints? And Possibly there would NOT be interfernce WITH the lowering ball joints, and NOT WITH the lowering springs? ONE OR THE OTHER is what you suggest?
So in the long run you are saying that there will NOT be interference WITH the lowering springs and NOT WITH the lowering ball joints? And Possibly there would NOT be interfernce WITH the lowering ball joints, and NOT WITH the lowering springs? ONE OR THE OTHER is what you suggest?
You can lower your car as mush as you like with only lowering springs and never have an interference issue between the rotor and a-arm nose (assuming stock lower a-arm).
If you have lowering springs & lowering ball joints, you will have an interference issue and need to trim the nose of the lower a-arm..
If you have stock springs with stock height bump stops and lowering ball joints, there is a small chance (not a guarantee) that there will not be any interference, but this has never been verified. By removing the front spring, raising the wheel to hit the bump stops and measuring the available room between the nose of the a-arm and the backside of the stock 88 rotor, I could determine if there is adequate clearance, or if there will be an interference issue.
If you have stock springs, cut down bump stops and lowering ball joints, you will have an interference issue at full suspension compression and need to trim the nose of the lower a-arm.
I have Rodney 1" lowering Ball Joints with a 12" brake upgrade and the do interfere with the lower a-arm. For sure 13" disks will do so.
I don't know with an additional 1 inch with lowering springs.
Thanks for the pictures!
I agree there is a chance for interferance, but my 13" rotors are 0.090" further away from the nose of the lower a-arm than the C4 setup, so it will take more suspension compression to make contact. How much more is is question and does the interference happen before hitting the stock bump stop.
With a stock ball joint, the nose of the stock lower a-arm is in the pocket of the 13" rotor and completely out of the path of the rotor pad surface, so there is nothing for it to interfere with. The lowering ball joints shift the nose down 1" and puts the nose adjacent to the rotor pad surface and creates the possibility for interference:
R there any caliper upgrades that you know of that will work with 17's and this 13 inch rotor? that just require adapter plates, and not a lot of reworking?
R there any caliper upgrades that you know of that will work with 17's and this 13 inch rotor? that just require adapter plates, and not a lot of reworking?
The rotors are about .81" thick, so any caliper for that thickness could me made to work (C4, wilwoods, and possibly others). The challenge is finding the caliper with the mounting location at the right depth to keep the mounting bracket from being too complicated. Then depending on the piston diameter, re-balancing the bias back to stock levels with a master cylinder change and possible addition of a rear brake proportioning valve, lastly hoping the caliper came with a parking brake option that can easily be adapted to the stock fiero cables - or you will have to buy new ones of those as well.
The stock 88 calipers work quite well and I keep them to keep the cost of the kit down, speed up and simplify the installation, and keep the stock brake bias without any need for further parts replacement or adjustment.
what is the bolt size before you drill out the holes for the 5x100 for the fiero?
Its a large 6 bolt pattern using M14 studs... never actually measured the pattern size. After drilling for the 5x100mm, there are no slotted holes like you get with the Viper rotors and their smaller 6 bolt pattern.
Its a large 6 bolt pattern using M14 studs... never actually measured the pattern size. After drilling for the 5x100mm, there are no slotted holes like you get with the Viper rotors and their smaller 6 bolt pattern.
Figured if i ever did a engine swap and needed to change the hubs or axles i would try to match either the 5x100 or the 6 bolt pattern....could run the 5x100 up front and the 6 bolt in the rear if needed...matching wheels would not be fun but just wondering...starting to figure out what i want to do for a future (years down the road swap) and starting to gather parts.
Hi, I am interested in your products, I require only to the front wheels, I hope to improve braking values my car, which kit you recommend?, The can Ship to Mexico?.
------------------ Fiero 88 the last and best of its kind!!
Hi, I am interested in your products, I require only to the front wheels, I hope to improve braking values my car, which kit you recommend?, The can Ship to Mexico?.
do your hub centric rings work with the 12" corvette brake swap? if so, do you have a set you can sell? Thanks
I use the same core, but turn them down further for the C4 rotors (smaller ID on the rotor). I can make them, just need to know if they are for an 88 (all the same) or the 84-87 (different front/rear). $40 shipped.
I use the same core, but turn them down further for the C4 rotors (smaller ID on the rotor). I can make them, just need to know if they are for an 88 (all the same) or the 84-87 (different front/rear). $40 shipped.
Sorry, I forgot about this. I actually found mine.
I do have another request. Do you think you'll be selling the LS4 starter mount plate? I just picked up my LS4. I'll most likely be going with the 282 w/HTOB but may do the F23 since I have one.
