My Indy wheel and knob is on its way to be recovered. I can't wait to get it back. Just so you guys know, I didn't use a wheel puller to get the wheel off. I popped the horn button off, removed the snap ring and the part that presses the button for the horn with small spring, removed the nut and put the nut back on a few threads to stop the wheel from flying off when I pulled on it. I then wiggled the wheel at 12,6,3,and the 9 o'clock position just to loosen it up a little. I then took a dead blow hammer and with my knees under the wheel and my free hand on the 12:00 position I smacked the part where the loose nut is in the center to vibrate the column as I pulled with my hand and knees. The wheel popped right off no problem. This was really easy to do. I have a messed up back, so it didn't require Hulk like force. If it don't come off, wiggle a little more like stated above and use that dead blow hammer again. Just make sure that center nut is still on so the wheel doesn't come off while you're pulling on it and taking out your teeth. I just figured out I'd try this method first before getting a loner wheel puller from AutoZone. I'll reply back about the quality of the wheel and shift knob as soon as I get it back and post pics if I can figure out how to post them.
My Indy wheel and knob is on its way to be recovered. I can't wait to get it back. Just so you guys know, I didn't use a wheel puller to get the wheel off. I popped the horn button off, removed the snap ring and the part that presses the button for the horn with small spring, removed the nut and put the nut back on a few threads to stop the wheel from flying off when I pulled on it. I then wiggled the wheel at 12,6,3,and the 9 o'clock position just to loosen it up a little. I then took a dead blow hammer and with my knees under the wheel and my free hand on the 12:00 position I smacked the part where the loose nut is in the center to vibrate the column as I pulled with my hand and knees. The wheel popped right off no problem. This was really easy to do. I have a messed up back, so it didn't require Hulk like force. If it don't come off, wiggle a little more like stated above and use that dead blow hammer again. Just make sure that center nut is still on so the wheel doesn't come off while you're pulling on it and taking out your teeth. I just figured out I'd try this method first before getting a loner wheel puller from AutoZone. I'll reply back about the quality of the wheel and shift knob as soon as I get it back and post pics if I can figure out how to post them.
Just so you know, not using a steering wheel puller is a good way to end up with a rattly steering column. There's a plastic stud that keeps the 2 part column from collapsing. When you hit a tree and smack the wheel, the plastic stud breaks and the steering column collapses, keeping you from impaling yourself on it. It doesn't look like the stud is replacable. You can "rent" a steering wheel puller from Autozone. (You get your money back when you return the puller.)
My Indy wheel and knob is on its way to be recovered. I can't wait to get it back. Just so you guys know, I didn't use a wheel puller to get the wheel off. I popped the horn button off, removed the snap ring and the part that presses the button for the horn with small spring, removed the nut and put the nut back on a few threads to stop the wheel from flying off when I pulled on it. I then wiggled the wheel at 12,6,3,and the 9 o'clock position just to loosen it up a little. I then took a dead blow hammer and with my knees under the wheel and my free hand on the 12:00 position I smacked the part where the loose nut is in the center to vibrate the column as I pulled with my hand and knees. The wheel popped right off no problem. This was really easy to do. I have a messed up back, so it didn't require Hulk like force. If it don't come off, wiggle a little more like stated above and use that dead blow hammer again. Just make sure that center nut is still on so the wheel doesn't come off while you're pulling on it and taking out your teeth. I just figured out I'd try this method first before getting a loner wheel puller from AutoZone. I'll reply back about the quality of the wheel and shift knob as soon as I get it back and post pics if I can figure out how to post them.
Wow, a dead blow hammer sounds pretty brutal on a steering column. Word of caution, the Fiero has a collapsible "intermediate link" between the column and the steering rack. Newer cars have more Sophisticated versions that actually collapse the column. Anyway the Fiero intermediate link has 2 nylon pins that prevent the 2 piece link from sliding apart when swapping in a new rack or removing the column.
Upon sufficient impact to the front of the vehicle the 2 pins will shear first and the link will perform its telescopic function. This will occur if the pins are present or not. I would not suggest using an intermediate link that has been in a crash due to any possible bending, binding, etc. Now please put away the hammers.
Spoon ------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
[This message has been edited by Spoon (edited 07-31-2015).]
Guys I wasn't winding up and smacking the center like I was trying to hit a baseball out of the park. And I wasn't using a sledge hammer. I was using a small dead blow "Plastic" hammer to vibrate the wheel as pressure was pulled on the wheel. It came off really easy and I've done this many times before. I've never had a problem but who knows maybe I've just been lucky. A wheel puller is the right way to do it but if you don't have access to one this method will work.
Its been a while since I updated this listing with some of my more recent work. Now that I've got PIP up and running again, here are some of the wheels I have completed in the last month:
86-87 brown (enough material left for one wheel and several shift knobs)
This is an example of a true Indy wheel. Unlike the conventional GT wheels, Indy wheels are have no layer of padding between the wheel and leather, deeper thumb notch grooves, and no stitched seam between the upper and lower sections of the wheel.
I also did a manual shift knob to go with this wheel. I should've grabbed more pictures before shipping it out... I'll take a few of the next one.
Not this one adjustso. This was for another customer that I did a week's or so ago, I'm playijc catch up on uploading all the pictures I've taken over the past month. Yours will be finished tonight and sent out tomorrow though.
Just an update to future customers. After some debate, I have decided to alter my prices in response to some issues I've been having with shipping prices. While my original prices of $160 for a single wheel or $300 for two covered shipping cost, I will now be charging $150 for a single wheel or $290 for two + shipping.
I have edited my original post to reflect these new prices, as well as to add Indy leather to the list of colors that I have available.
I just installed my Indy steering wheel and shift knob that was just redone by Alex. All I can say is WOW !!!!! After opening the box and inspecting the work that was done it's easy to see the craftsmanship and attention to detail that was applied in both the wheel and knob. I wish I had this kind of talent. It's absolutely amazing. When the new wheel is installed, it's like a new interior. I didn't think the wheel and knob would matter that much and boy was I wrong ! The new parts jump out at you and look awesome. I'm very happy I had this done and would do it again no questions asked. I'll get pics up as soon as I transfer the pics from my phone to my laptop and figure out how to use PIP. Thanks Alex. Great job !
To all of you who have messaged me over the past few days and not received a response, I would like to offer my sincerest apology. Last Wednesday I was in an accident while driving my 87 GT. Nobody was hurt, but the car sustained some nasty damage to the hood and bumper. As I am set to head back to school in less than a week, I have been toiling away out in the garage doing the necessary body and paint work to get my baby back on the road while I still have the proper utilities at my disposal. I am happy to report that she's good as new and that I have resumed work on the wheels that my customers have sent out! -Alex
I would like to get a beechwood steering wheel recovered. Sent you a pm with my number so I can get your details and send it out. It is a 4 spoke Formula wheel for my MERA.
With the end of summer break and my return to school, my turn around time has increased to roughly 1 week per wheel. If you contact me to get your wheel recovered, I will be sure to let you know if there are any customers ahead of you that could lead to an increased turn around time.
Additionally, I will NO LONGER be recovering automatic shift knobs, at least for the time being. I will still be doing manual shift knobs however.
Just recieved my INDY steering wheel back from being recovered by irrational (Alex). Excellent job, very good quality, if you need your recovered, definetly contact him.
I applaud your craftsmanship and will keep you in mind for any future needs.
How long does it take you to do a wheel?
If I was to estimate, I would say that it takes me between 8-11 man hours to complete a wheel start to finish (although I have never actually timed myself) During the summer when my schedule was free, I could finish a wheel in 2 days working at a comfortable pace. Now that I'm back in school, it can take me 7-10 days to complete a wheel depending on my class schedule and how many assignments I'm juggling.
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