The headers are built from 304 stainless and are fully TIG welded. 16 gauge 1 1/2" primaries, with a 2 1/4" ID collector and 3/8" flanges. These do not exit in the stock location as they are much longer, so the stock downpipe will need a flange welded onto it. I do not have a duke car together at the moment so for the time being I will not be offering a crimp or weld on adapter.

I will include hardened conical washers and new bolts with the headers.

For now they are made to order. If there is enough of a demand I will start keeping them in stock

The price right now is $225 shipped to the US and only to the US. If I start stocking them the price will drop









Any questions please ask! I'm glad to help

Is there no O2 sensor spot?

There is, just not in the set pictured. It was built for a remote mount turbo s10. It will exit out of the collector toward the driver side.

Two things. First, for those who are thinking about a header for your 2.5L I can tell you from actual experience (not just "what I think") that it will work on your motor. I put one on my 2.5 and while I can't say for sure it was any faster, I couldn't believe the difference it made in the RPM's. What I'm saying is that when you throttle the pedal the RPM's came up MUCH faster, it was like night/day between the stock setup. Again, not saying I took a second off my 0-60 or anything but the RPM's would rise and fall much faster than stock.

Second, I think the stock manifold is shaped the way it is because of the loop that it creates for the catalytic converter. Any chance on getting the end to point the other direction so that it can exit the motor and already be heading for the "hump" that is placed on the stock cradle for the exhaust to exit? When I did mine I ran a cat in the stock muffler location and just a resonator tip on the end of the pipe. Even had a "Supertrapp" on for a while. (remember those).

Great looking header, I may even purchase one for my wall of "Fiero Stuff".

Rob

Out of curiosity, how come you did away with the bolt holes on the flange at the head side?

Less waste and not as hard on the plasma. I would love to have a plasma that could handle 3/8" pierce cuts over and over again, but that isn't going to happen and the flanges are cut much quicker this way.

quote Originally posted by LaFierte: Out of curiosity, how come you did away with the bolt holes on the flange at the head side?

This header is quite similar to some Jeep headers that I've seen. Most of the Jeep headers use similar flanges.
Our 4.0 six cylinder also had the same flanges. The factory uses a "captive washer" type bolt.

quote Originally posted by Raydar: This header is quite similar to some Jeep headers that I've seen. Most of the Jeep headers use similar flanges. Our 4.0 six cylinder also had the same flanges. The factory uses a "captive washer" type bolt.

Oh c'mon, don't go giving away my secrets! A note though, you cannot take any jeep header and bolt it to the iron duke. They are not the same

[This message has been edited by Slammed (edited 12-14-2016).]

quote Originally posted by Slammed: Oh c'mon, don't go giving away my secrets! A note though, you cannot take any jeep header and bolt it to the iron duke. They are not the same

Not my intent. Most everything I found was either more expensive than yours, or crap, anyway.
Just an observation about the flanges. (The header that I replaced worked just fine with those flanges.)

Edit - A question, though...
How close does the header come to the starter? (Or how close will the extension pipe need to be?)
I am thinking about buying one of the later gear reduction starters for my Duke, to save a little weight and some current drain. They seem to have the solenoid "clocked" at about 1 o'clock or 1:30, looking at the front of the starter. Wondering if there will be enough room.

Thanks!

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-14-2016).]

I'll put one on my duke block here and take some pictures. I know it will clear the stock starter no problem

As promised, you have been Paypal'ed...Woo hoo. I know these are MTO, and the holidays are upon us, but what kind of lead time can I expect?

Thanks,
Aaron

I'll try and get them out before the weekend but it will likely be the 26th

Thank you for the purchase!

Were you able to get the header shipped out yet? I have a couple more days off work and would love to get it mocked up before going back to the grind, haha.

quote Originally posted by Slammed: I'll try and get them out before the weekend but it will likely be the 26th Thank you for the purchase!

Please check your PM's...Thanks.

I'm curious to know, regal7point5, did you receive and install your headers? And if so, what are they like?

quote Originally posted by Hidalgo: I'm curious to know, regal7point5, did you receive and install your headers? And if so, what are they like?

Never received them...had to file a PayPal claim to get refunded. Same thing happened to a bunch of folks that were buying GT reproduction taillights from this member. I don't think the member has been active on here since. It is a shame because the pictures of the headers showed real promise.

Vert nice header and you did right not going the equal length rout; a 3Y is the way to go with that motor. My only concern, without 8 bolts they may warp down the road and cayse exhaust leaks. Whereas we made headers and intake manifolds for the v6s i would suggest keeping your inventory low. Good luck

quote Originally posted by Francis T: i would suggest keeping your inventory low. Good luck

And also to actually produce the product and ship them to the people who paid for them....