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Sanding plastic by Tstang429
Started on: 05-27-2014 09:31 PM
Replies: 46 (524 views)
Last post by: 84fiero123 on 06-02-2014 01:45 PM
Khw
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Report this Post06-01-2014 08:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KhwSend a Private Message to KhwEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:

And yes I know how to drill stainless, doesnt make it any easier. You dont do it in spurts. You do it slow speeds and steady pressure according to a machine shop.


Yes and use oil to keep the drill surface lubed and to help cool the drill and material. Stainless is low speed to cut and yes drilling is still cutting. We used stainless quite often in the machine shop I worked in and even bandsawing bar stock down to the proper length for machining, you set it up to the lowest speed and feed setting and made sure the coolant/lubricant was flowing freely.

[This message has been edited by Khw (edited 06-01-2014).]

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84fiero123
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Report this Post06-01-2014 09:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
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Originally posted by fastblack:
You can show me charts on the internet all day long but until you've drilled thousands upon thousands of holes into 20 ga stainless steel, I'll still go with my way. I worked for Featherlite for 5 years after high school/during college doing rework. Anytime a trailer got damaged during production it was up to us to fix it. I worked on everything from flat bead car trailers up to Nascar Haulers. Almost every trailer has a mirrored stainless steel "nose" on it and during the course of normal production a punch/press makes the holes for the rivets that fasten it to the frame of the trailer. When this piece gets damaged however, the punch/press operator cannot be bothered with punching out a "custom" piece for us so we end up drilling all the rivet holes by hand. Now it would be wonderful to have this curved piece of steel laying on a nice flat surface where you could control your drill's RPM's, thrust, feed, etc along with the proper lubrication but for obvious reasons we could not do that. I know that when you have all the proper tools in place in a perfect work environment, your handy chart you found on the internet is probably right. However, in most real world applications, my way will work better. I'm sorry I do not have a chart on the internet to prove it.

And by the way, insulting my intelligence and comparing me to some other idiot you've met was very childish. I would have expected that sh!t out of Roger, but not you Steve, I guess I may have been wrong about you.


Featherlite Trailers are all aluminum except for that one peace in the front that is thin SS. you forget we have a farm and I am a welder/fabricator/ironworker. While they are not cheap thin aluminum the SS on the front is thin, we are not talking about a 1/8" thick peace of SS for that front splash shield, unless you are talking about their stock trailers, those have a lot more SS on them but still thin in comparison to what I and many others here have worked with. Ever here of a variable speed drill and controller?

when you drill SS as others have said, slow steady and with lubrication no matter how thick.

I also worked in the real world and know all about how things are not like in a fab shop, but you are wrong about how to drill SS, ask any high school or college or tech school metal shop teacher. if you have to and I have done it fill a spray bottle with oil or even just water to cool and keep the drill lubricated. You are wrong about how you are doing it, its that simple, your technique is wrong.

From a drill company.

http://www.drill-hq.com/201...ugh-stainless-steel/

Drill slowly and allow the bit to do the work. Some will tell you that if you apply too much pressure, friction will cause your drill bit to redden with heat which will ruin it or your piece of stainless steel. If you are spinning slow enough and have enough lubrication, then this will not happen. In fact, more pressure can sometimes cause the drill to stay cooler as it travels through virgin metal below the last cut surface on every rotation. Let off on the pressure as you break through to avoid spiraling into the hole.

Overheating the tool can happen if you engage the drill to its full speed. The trick here is to find a happy medium, that “sweet spot” at which the drill, the bit and the metal cooperate fully. If it appears there’s too much smoke from the lubrication, back off immediately. Allow the bracket to cool for a few minutes and start the process again. You’ll save the “drill bit” in the process. When in doubt, drill slower. Also, the larger the hole diameter, the slower you should spin the “drill bit” to reduce heat.
 
quote
Originally posted by fastblack:
And by the way, insulting my intelligence and comparing me to some other idiot you've met was very childish. I would have expected that sh!t out of Roger, but not you Steve, I guess I may have been wrong about you.


And by the way when you show the lack of intelligence you did by saying how you should drill SS when every other older and more knowledgeable person on here told you that you were wrong by continuing to say you are right, that is why I compared you to the idiot who wouldn't listen to me when trying to teach him how to use the plasma cutter. if you don't listen to experience you do show a lack of intelligence.

Steve

[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 06-01-2014).]

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fastblack
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Report this Post06-01-2014 10:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fastblackSend a Private Message to fastblackEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Steve, I do respect your knowledge on this topic and am aware of your experience. Here's how I'm going to finish this off (I hope), I will concede to your way of drilling stainless being the superior technique. I did somewhat admit to it in my previous smart a$$ post (I apologize BTW). I will stick by my guns that in my situation, my technique worked the best.

Hope this can all be laid to rest. I do apologize for any of my previous posts being a tad cross, I've been having a really bad day for numerous reasons.
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fastblack
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Report this Post06-01-2014 10:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fastblackSend a Private Message to fastblackEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

fastblack

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FWIW, I have drilled stainless using slow speed and lube. I think we can all agree that high speed is not the way to do it.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post06-01-2014 11:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fastblack:

FWIW, I have drilled stainless using slow speed and lube. I think we can all agree that high speed is not the way to do it.


you have a PM
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post06-02-2014 12:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Im only an azz when someone tells me something they dont know anything about, or tells me Im wrong on something I know Im right on. Otherwise, the people I know will tell you I can be the nicest person they know. If I dont know something, I am quick to give the benefit of the doubt to someone unless they dont know either. Ive stood corrected a lot of times when shown Im wrong on something.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post06-02-2014 01:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
And now back to grinding off a plastic emblem off a plastic headlight.

while power tools with variable speed control can and does work, if you know what you are doing and slowly grind the emblem off, not at high speed it will melt the plastic and make buffing the plastic to a clear shine almost impossible if you do. and you will have to hand sand the plastic lens after even if you do get the majority off with the power tool without melting the plastic, variable speed is your friend with power tools and the reason most have that now.

Steve
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