The listing had 15% off, guess it was a limited time thing?
You can use pretty much any PLA as along as its 1.75 mm
We've used a few brands and they all worked fine.
The amazon link is for magnetic bed. (two sheets of magnetic material, you trim it to fit the bed, then make a notch so it s easy to line the sheets up
makes removal so much easier, and keeps the bed in good shape.
[This message has been edited by TheDigitalAlchemist (edited 09-12-2022).]
Mine is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, and is now west of Amarillo, but it is FedEx so it is anybody's guess.
I installed Cura yesterday and am trying to figure it out.
Does your phone/tablet app talk to the printer directly or through Sculpto's servers? In other words, if their servers or the internet go down, can I still upload an .stl and control the machine?
Mine is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, and is now west of Amarillo, but it is FedEx so it is anybody's guess.
I installed Cura yesterday and am trying to figure it out.
Does your phone/tablet app talk to the printer directly or through Sculpto's servers? In other words, if their servers or the internet go down, can I still upload an .stl and control the machine?
I got this one to do a few quick videos about the printer, initial setup, setting up the app, common issues, etc. The app is limited in that you can't rotate or change the infill percentage. But, it does 'magically' add the necessary supports. (although I sometimes turn that off if the part doesn't require supports)
I also usually turn off the raft.
You open the app. It asks for you to log into Thingiverse - you just click the printer icon on the bottom to get past that. The app connects to the printer. You import the file, you can resize it and move it around on the bed. Once it starts printing, it tells you that you can close the app. I do think you need to use the app to cancel a print.
I usually use the good or best print setting.
Before you print , it asks you to click the correct colors (the printer flashes colors to make sure you are actually physically there.
It's back to $70. I just ordered one. Let's give this a try...
Sweet!
I would think that this printer could realistically handle at least 500 large prints before it dies. We are already at almost 200 and its not slowing down. (but things DO have a lifespan, such as the hot end, fan, stepper motor, etc...) Our other printers have cheap, replaceable components.
I really do recommend "spurging" on the magnetic sheets. 12 bucks. Takes three minutes to trace, place, trim.
Our Instagram shows a bunch of videos of the printer in action and the "ease of use".
Sorry if I seem super-eager regarding this thing, its just that there are so many printers which require a lot of "tweaking" before you can get reliable prints off of it. And this one, once you see how it work, just kinda "works".
I recommend THIS as your test print. Doesn't use much filament.
We haven't printed many "print-in-place" models (ones that have joints and articulations "built in")
Please, if you plan on leaving it "unattended", toss a smoke alarm in the same room. We've never had a fire, but safety is a good thing.
I would think that this printer could realistically handle at least 500 large prints before it dies. We are already at almost 200 and its not slowing down. (but things DO have a lifespan, such as the hot end, fan, stepper motor, etc...) Our other printers have cheap, replaceable components.
I really do recommend "spurging" on the magnetic sheets. 12 bucks. Takes three minutes to trace, place, trim.
Our Instagram shows a bunch of videos of the printer in action and the "ease of use".
Sorry if I seem super-eager regarding this thing, its just that there are so many printers which require a lot of "tweaking" before you can get reliable prints off of it. And this one, once you see how it work, just kinda "works".
I recommend THIS as your test print. Doesn't use much filament.
We haven't printed many "print-in-place" models (ones that have joints and articulations "built in")
Please, if you plan on leaving it "unattended", toss a smoke alarm in the same room. We've never had a fire, but safety is a good thing.
Thank you very much for the advice. It's all appreciated. I'm a total noob, at this point.
I bought the recommended sheets, and a roll of filament. How far does a 1Kg roll go, for stuff of the size that this can print? ... Obviously, that's a wide range. Just wondering if I'm going to blow through a roll in three days, or anything like that.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 09-15-2022).]
Sold me on it once it fell to $70 since it can use generic filament. I've wasted $70 on stupider things. Kind of hard to believe that this is any good for just $70, so I've got my expectations in check.
Is there software for the PC as well, or is it app only? I've been out of the 3D printer game for 5+ years when I was working at a university that had some that cost a small fortune back then (and still weren't all that great).
Thank you very much for the advice. It's all appreciated. I'm a total noob, at this point.
I bought the recommended sheets, and a roll of filament. How far does a 1Kg roll go, for stuff of the size that this can print? ... Obviously, that's a wide range. Just wondering if I'm going to blow through a roll in three days, or anything like that.
It really depends on what you print - is it hollow? do you use rafts? (the printer prints a few layers of material down and then the print is ontop of that, and snaps off when you're done. That reduces warping (the bottom edges of a box might "curl" upwards a little) and helps the item stick to the bed during printing. Depending on the temp of your room, its not usually necessary. Maybe print your first calibration cube WITH a raft, then try one without and compare the two.
I think we got three life-sized human skulls out of one roll of filament. I forget the infill percentage we had. But you shouldn't run out that quickly.
[This message has been edited by TheDigitalAlchemist (edited 09-15-2022).]
Sold me on it once it fell to $70 since it can use generic filament. I've wasted $70 on stupider things. Kind of hard to believe that this is any good for just $70, so I've got my expectations in check.
Is there software for the PC as well, or is it app only? I've been out of the 3D printer game for 5+ years when I was working at a university that had some that cost a small fortune back then (and still weren't all that great).
It's app only (which I usually hate, but its not terrible. Just some day, it won't be on the APP store, and then we'll all be sad)
I think it was around 300-400 bucks when it first came out, the one we have is the newer updated version, (all of them are pretty much the same, one has an updated "flexible" bed (but the magnetic sheet takes care of that) but they kinda marketed it for older "crafty" people, who really aren't (usually) that "savvy" with this stuff.
I used some of the Sculpto filament, it was fine. like 12 bucks a spool (ebay auction) Some kinda sparkly-glittery stuff. I've used a few brands, they all stuck fine to the bed, and printed nice.
look for "volt the robot" on Instagram. Scroll down and you'll see posts regarding the printer. The one with the T-Rex skull shows you how easy it is to pop the print off...
One other item you will need is a filament holder. just anything that can hold it and allow it to freely spin. Like a wooden dowel or a baseball bat or paper towel holder or somethin'
You can even print one up. My favorite one is one we made outta pvc some pipe. Adjustable and collapsible. Used a pencil stuck though a box inna pinch once. Taped it down.
Loading and unloading the filament isn't too difficult, If it doesn't fully load the first time, you can do it a second time (don't need to "unload it"). Can also tell it to print and then cancel it once it starts comin' out. I dunno, things kinda make more sense after ya mess with it some. I hate to oversimplify, especially here, where folks swap freakin' care engines and whatnot.
I recommend printing the "top mod" (there are two - I like the "open" one) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579082 it allows you to "get at the filament" a bit if ya need to...
I'm guessing you'll be spending quite a bit more than 75 when you're actually printing stuff, right? So can this actually make useful items, parts/fasteners, or is it mainly just a toy? I don't know anything about 3D printing because I haven't looked into it. First heard about it years ago and figured it was kind of just for fun to make GI joe figurines or something. Is there different types of plastic that can be used? Like maybe something more rigid, or something with some flex that could be used as a 'spring' or similar? From the limited info I have previously read, the finished product doesn't come out as a smooth part, but is more jagged or rough. Can it be sanded and buffed to be smooth?
I'm guessing you'll be spending quite a bit more than 75 when you're actually printing stuff, right? So can this actually make useful items, parts/fasteners, or is it mainly just a toy? I don't know anything about 3D printing because I haven't looked into it. First heard about it years ago and figured it was kind of just for fun to make GI joe figurines or something. Is there different types of plastic that can be used? Like maybe something more rigid, or something with some flex that could be used as a 'spring' or similar? From the limited info I have previously read, the finished product doesn't come out as a smooth part, but is more jagged or rough. Can it be sanded and buffed to be smooth?
bucks invested: 70 for the printer (free shipping - usually that's about 50-150) 12 for the magnetic bed 10-30 for the filament
or google "practical 3d prints" to see some of the stuff you can make.
We used ours to make a lot of custom pegboard stuff, and enclosures and some other "actually useful" stuff.
This printer really only uses PLA. You CAN use it with others, (with mixed results)
ABS plastic is "LEGO" plastic. its smelly when you print with it. PLA used to smell like maple syrup, but most don't smell at all now...
There are a lot of other materials (a "wood" a "carbon fiber" several "flexible" materials like "NINJAFLEX", etc) this printer is just good to get you started. Not bad for prototyping and mold-making too...
[This message has been edited by TheDigitalAlchemist (edited 09-15-2022).]
It took me a little while to get it working. I figured out the tube was clogged. There is a little plastic C clip that you have to slide out, then push down on the fitting and pull the tube out. Once I removed the obstruction, I was on my way. I uploaded the file to my google drive and then down to the machine. It is now almost done and looks good.
A little less than three hour after FedEx dropped it on my doorstep.
Looks like a stick of butter.
[This message has been edited by williegoat (edited 09-15-2022).]
Should be able to just turn it off. If you arent going to use it for a while you might want to unload the filament and put it back in the package with the dessicant pack. Stuff is hydroscopic and moisture will really screw with your print quality.
If thats what it looks like, its a calibration cube. Check it with your verneers, and all dimensions should be the same (actually, I am happy within 0.01mm)
The very next thing I print is going to be the open lid that TDA recommended. I found that after my first few failed attempts, the filament gear was covered with little shavings. I took it out and cleaned it.
Now that I understand the machine a little better, I will order a spool of filament.
The included spool holder seems to do the job, I just added a piece of PVC pipe to the spindle to insure that the spool rolls smoothly. The only thing I added was a 1kg spool of PLA.
