Ender 3 V3 SE





The C clamp came out better than old Ludwig.



I am using OctoPi to run it from my desktop.



Using my Nikon D60 for time lapse:



A quick 9 second video showing a Pi cam and the DSLR:

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"Ain't no rest for the whiskers."

Very cool!

How many prints and how many failures?

My first and only Ender is sitting on a shelf in the garage collecting dust. I should just chuck it in the trash.

I only got a few good prints. The first test print (little tug boat) and two after that. But the hundreds after that were all failures. I tried EVERY thing in the book to try to make it work right. Every combination of bed and nozzle temperature, speed, leveling, new nozzles, even different and more expensive PLA and nothing but fails after fails.

I want something to work so bad. I see the ads for this version always coming up on my feeds and it's reasonable for being $199. I just don't trust it, and I'm not about to throw money on different more expensive models because I think they will fail as well.

If I can't make a cheap one to work, then I'm not ready for a more expensive make or model.

If this works with little failures and you can get over 20-good prints consistently on this, then maybe I might try this again.

quote Originally posted by Wichita: How many prints and how many failures? My first and only Ender is sitting on a shelf in the garage collecting dust. I should just chuck it in the trash. I only got a few good prints. The first test print (little tug boat) and two after that. But the hundreds after that were all failures. I tried EVERY thing in the book to try to make it work right. Every combination of bed and nozzle temperature, speed, leveling, new nozzles, even different and more expensive PLA and nothing but fails after fails. I want something to work so bad. I see the ads for this version always coming up on my feeds and it's reasonable for being $199. I just don't trust it, and I'm not about to throw money on different more expensive models because I think they will fail as well. If I can't make a cheap one to work, then I'm not ready for a more expensive make or model. If this works with little failures and you can get over 20-good prints consistently on this, then maybe I might try this again.

This is my second printer and overall I am very pleased. It is practically “plug and play” and has been absolutely trouble free. My first printer was the one in this thread: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum6/HTML/127786.html

I have had this printer for a week and printed over 20 parts.

Two didn’t stick to the bed, I learned to use a glue stick.

One part taught me that I should examine the model and consider adding supports in some cases.

So, three failures were all learning experiences.

I am using Cura as a slicer. I like it better than the Creality slicer although both have a common origin. Also, Octopi is a great addition. I can do almost everything from my desktop and don't have to screw with SD cards.

Now, I need to understand Blender.

May I ask how you do your glue stick method?

quote Originally posted by Wichita: May I ask how you do your glue stick method?

Does anyone here have a scanner? I have a very small part I need a copy of...

[This message has been edited by rbell2915 (edited 10-11-2023).]

quote Originally posted by rbell2915: Does anyone here have a scanner? I have a very small part I need a copy of...

One issue with many scanners is that they don't scan small objects well... how large is the object, and what material? (is it matte or shiny?)

quote Originally posted by TheDigitalAlchemist: One issue with many scanners is that they don't scan small objects well... how large is the object, and what material? (is it matte or shiny?)

This silver directional switch. I'm installing Porsche 987 seats into my Fiero and this is missing on the passenger side. Not sure how intricate the other side is yet.

quote Originally posted by rbell2915: This silver directional switch. I'm installing Porsche 987 seats into my Fiero and this is missing on the passenger side. Not sure how intricate the other side is yet.

I would go with a High-temp silicon one-piece mold. Pull the piece out, made an insert that will rest on top of the opening, then fill it with a metal. tin or pewter or such. then fill it halfway with resin or poly 2-part putty. toss in an inexpensive knob that has the proper connecter on it and End result would look good and would be very strong... You could also coat the mold with metallic stuff and then just use resin and the knob. lots of options, but IMO, you don't need a scanner. EasyMold (purple stuff) is good stuff to clone objects. and using a ABS knob can take the abuse.

quote Originally posted by TheDigitalAlchemist: I would go with a High-temp silicon one-piece mold. Pull the piece out, made an insert that will rest on top of the opening, then fill it with a metal. tin or pewter or such. then fill it halfway with resin or poly 2-part putty. toss in an inexpensive knob that has the proper connecter on it and End result would look good and would be very strong... You could also coat the mold with metallic stuff and then just use resin and the knob. lots of options, but IMO, you don't need a scanner. EasyMold (purple stuff) is good stuff to clone objects. and using a ABS knob can take the abuse.

Okay thanks. I surprisingly found some online for about $50 and I'll probably do that.

I'm learning. There is now a Cura profile for this printer on GitHub which took my prints from 50mm/s up to 180mm/s. The thing is rocking like Candy Johnson at a Surfaris show.

I was playing around with vase mode (called spiralize outer contour on Cura) and made a video. This was a test, an experiment. The weirdness you see is just me experimenting with lighting and testing the auto focus. The background music is also me.

I found the model on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2511033

Since we're on the subject of 3D printing (but not meaning to hijack the thread), I have an Ender 3 Max with the original Bowden extruder setup. I just noticed there's now a cheap Creality Direct Drive extruder available for only $38. I don't really have a need for printing TPU (although it would be nice) but I was wondering if it would improve my print quality?

I print mainly with PETG. The first few prints of a new roll come out great but then it starts stringing. Probably because PETG absorbs moist like crazy. I was wondering if a direct drive extruder would lessen the stringing (due to the faster and better retraction)?

But what worries me mostly, is the extra weight. Would the extra weight cause the x-movement to become less accurate (due to inertia)?

quote Originally posted by Cliff Pennock: Since we're on the subject of 3D printing (but not meaning to hijack the thread), I have an Ender 3 Max with the original Bowden extruder setup. I just noticed there's now a cheap Creality Direct Drive extruder available for only $38. I don't really have a need for printing TPU (although it would be nice) but I was wondering if it would improve my print quality? I print mainly with PETG. The first few prints of a new roll come out great but then it starts stringing. Probably because PETG absorbs moist like crazy. I was wondering if a direct drive extruder would lessen the stringing (due to the faster and better retraction)? But what worries me mostly, is the extra weight. Would the extra weight cause the x-movement to become less accurate (due to inertia)?

I am obviously a complete newb, so I cannot provide any authoritative answers, but this machine has a direct drive extruder and I have been studying. I have only used PLA, but I have a roll of TPU on the way.

Regarding direct drive, retraction and stringing, I found the following video informative:



I never even thought about the additional mass of a direct drive extruder, but I would guess that the advantages would outweigh any loss due to additional inertia. Because retraction would take less time, it might offset the time it would take to stop or change direction along the X axis. If the rollers, belt, etc are in good shape and adjusted, I wouldn't expect any additional slop.

Again, I am not the voice of experience. Just the opinion of an old retired gearjammer.

very nice (and spoooooky!)

I went ahead and splurge and bought a new one.
Ender 3 V2 NEO 3D

Appears to be upgraded from my original. As also they bundled it with a laser engraver. Paid like $177. Hopefully it does ok.

quote Originally posted by Wichita: I went ahead and splurge and bought a new one. Ender 3 V2 NEO 3D Appears to be upgraded from my original. As also they bundled it with a laser engraver. Paid like $177. Hopefully it does ok.

Cool, tell us why you chose that one and let us know how it works out.

Don't throw your old one away, donate it. I never sell anything, but I always give stuff away.

quote Originally posted by williegoat: Cool, tell us why you chose that one and let us know how it works out. Don't throw your old one away, donate it. I never sell anything, but I always give stuff away.

Honestly, I have no idea what the main differences are between the models. Seems like very subtle differences and price. I just got it, because they enticed me with a bargain (in my mind). If they wanted to throw a laser engraver (albeit their most weakest one) for under $200 shipped, I'm willing to try again. Maybe I'll give the other one away to some maker place and they can do whatever. I honestly hope I have decent luck with this one. I'm not looking to make to sell anything. Just want to print fun stuff or handy peg board tool holders.

An interesting take on the Ender 3...

I have been playing with Blender and TPU. I made some feet for a Raspberry Pi case that I found on Thingiverse.







I am modding the case with Blender and I will post some pics once I am done.

I just ordered a roll of TPU filament. I was wondering if I would be able to print a thermostat sealing ring. I have the original (discontinued) Stant thermostat for the Fiero here, but its sealant ring has disintegrated... Of course TPU is a thermoplast, but maybe coolant temp doesn't get high enough to cause problems? 🤔

quote Originally posted by Cliff Pennock: I just ordered a roll of TPU filament. I was wondering if I would be able to print a thermostat sealing ring. I have the original (discontinued) Stant thermostat for the Fiero here, but its sealant ring has disintegrated... Of course TPU is a thermoplast, but maybe coolant temp doesn't get high enough to cause problems? 🤔

I wish I could help, but all of this is new to me. I am learning as I go along.

quote Originally posted by williegoat: I am modding the case with Blender and I will post some pics once I am done.

I have set up a new Pi 4 dedicated to my 3D printer and running OctoPi.
This is the case that I found on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4084803

This is my project:



I made a few mods as described below:

The back of the case exposed only the pins necessary to connect the fan, but I opened it up to expose all of the GPIO pins. I also added holes for a 3mm led indicator light and to secure the board with screws.









I have some button head screws on the way to replace the socket heads.

Here is the OctoPi looking at itself.

New 3D printer out together and did the old boat test. Three prints so far for the new printer. All 3 failed. 😥

quote Originally posted by Wichita: New 3D printer out together and did the old boat test. Three prints so far for the new printer. All 3 failed. 😥

Post some picks and/or describe the failures. I know we can figure this out.

I am starting to get a handle on Blender.

Yesterday morning I designed and printed a top plate for my Pi3b that mounts a Picam module. I found the cam case on Thingiverse.

All I have to do is give it power and set it down, and it will wirelessly stream live video to a browser on my LAN.

[This message has been edited by williegoat (edited 11-13-2023).]

I haven't had a successful print yet on the new 3D printer. Used glue stick, and it didn't do a damn thing. Still failed. It just won't stick to the bed.

[This message has been edited by Wichita (edited 11-19-2023).]

I was playing with one of those at a local Microcenter the other day, it wasn't autoleveling properly.

Does it say how to initially set up the bed? The four screws on the corners, should you turn them so the bed goes 'all the way down'?

I'd level the table the printer is on, then level the bed using one of those circular levels (like 2 bucks on Amazon), then do an autolevel, then do a "bed test level" (Thingiverse)

quote Originally posted by TheDigitalAlchemist: I was playing with one of those at a local Microcenter the other day, it wasn't autoleveling properly. Does it say how to initially set up the bed? The four screws on the corners, should you turn them so the bed goes 'all the way down'? I'd level the table the printer is on, then level the bed using one of those circular levels (like 2 bucks on Amazon), then do an autolevel, then do a "bed test level" (Thingiverse)

I'm willing to try anything. I'll get one if those circle levels. I auto level each time. I'll report back.

A level bed doesn't necessarily mean the print height is correct. After auto leveling, I would do an Auto Home and check the distance between the nozzle and the bed with a piece of paper. You shouldn't be able to just slide a piece of paper under the nozzle. But if you push the bed down a little, then slide the paper under the nozzle and release the bed, you should be able to slide the paper with some resistance.

Also, I hate using glue sticks. It makes a mess, can clog your nozzle and it simply doesn't adhere good enough (due to it not drying and therefor acting like a lubricant instead). I use a "special" glue spray which really isn't more than hair spray (in fact, I'm pretty sure it's rebranded hair spray because it's even lightly perfumed). I never have problems with bed adhesion and it's easy to clean (and it smells good 😉).

Also, check if you can flip your bed. My bed has a special layer on one side, and is just glass on the other side. I use the glass side. My prints stick much better and get a nice shiny mirror-like surface at the bottom.

PS: Looking at your pictures, I'm pretty sure your first layer prints waaaayy too high.

PS2: If you insist on using a glue stick, lower your bed temperature. Perhaps even turn the bed heating off.

I will , of course, defer to the guys with the experience, but I have a couple of questions for Wichita.

1) Did you follow all of the setup steps exactly as described in the manual and/or online videos?
These are the things Mr. Pennock and TDA are talking about. I know we are guys and tend to ignore directions, but this is a precision machine and requires precise setup.

2) What are the conditions in the room? Temperature, humidity, airflow, etc. ?
If you are printing in the garage in Kansas right now, it is cold and wet. If an old lady goes by your window on a bicycle, grab Toto and head for the root cellar.

3) Did you print the .gcode file that came with the printer as your first print?
If the supplied test print fails, the problem is with the printer or setup. If the supplied print is the only thing that works, the problem is something else.

Yeah, as Cliff said, the filament looks as untouched as I me during my prom. wait...

I've never used anything other than a good intense stare to keep the print stickin' proper. no glue sticks or spray or such stuff.

I was thinkin' was that the printer doesn't know that you have a magnetic bed sheet, but that shouldn't change things between the auto head thingie that pops down and the distance between the nozzle and the bed...

but here, lookie HERE:

Once the bed is level, go to the Z offset settings in the tune menu to adjust the Z offset in real-time. Then, bring your printer to its home location (auto home) and change the Z offset value so the nozzle is just above the bed.

Then do the Cliff-paper thing and try again, and get your satisfaction

If you are wondering what in the picture convinces me your first layer height is way to high, it's this:



That shouldn't look like that. It should look squashed. The first layer height should be a lot less than the "normal" layer height.

[This message has been edited by williegoat (edited 11-21-2023).]

This is for Wichita. Sorry to hijack Willie

Thank you for the YouTube video.

I've had a few successful prints, just small test stuff. Some failures. Decided to to to print something useful, which is a AA/AAA battery holder. The slicer says it's a 10-hour print.

So we will see. So far about an hour has passed by and it's still doing ok.

quote Originally posted by Wichita: Thank you for the YouTube video. I've had a few successful prints, just small test stuff. Some failures. Decided to to to print something useful, which is a AA/AAA battery holder. The slicer says it's a 10-hour print. So we will see. So far about an hour has passed by and it's still doing ok.

Well, that's certainly good to hear.

Post a pick when you get a print you like.

I will upload the timelapse video of this print tomorrow. This is starting to get real fun.