This past weekend I installed my built coilovers, poly in the control arms and new ball joints. I didn't touch the knuckle/ brake assembly. Since my first drive, I had this scratching noise as if the pads were scraping rust off the rotor- which I thought was normal since the car had been sitting for over a month. It got progressively louder and started squealing VERY loud.
I took some pics of whats going on back there:
Strut is extremely close to the wheel lip
Rubbing a tiny bit.. I guess cause I set it to max negative camber??
Dust shields vs rotor.. What the hell, this area was never touched?
Springs are wearing away the sleeves.
All of this is after 20 miles of driving on max negative camber. Struts are Monroe, springs are AFCO 12" 250lbs adjusted about 15 turns from the bottom.
Is the spring centered on the top perch? What is keeping your spring concentric to the strut shaft? It looks like either the spring is flexing inward like this: ) or the spring isn't staying concentric.
Is the spring centered on the top perch? What is keeping your spring concentric to the strut shaft? It looks like either the spring is flexing inward like this: ) or the spring isn't staying concentric.
I do believe it is cause it was on pretty good when I installed it, I'll double check tomorrow to see if theres any wiggle room. I assembled my struts the same way redraif did in his thread:
They are not sitting concentric at the bottom it seems, what do you think I should do? (And yes I'm using a button head screw cause I got the sleeves+ collars used and haven't gotten around to finding an appropriate set screw).
[This message has been edited by nitroheadz28 (edited 10-15-2011).]
Originally posted by nitroheadz28: {And yes I'm using a button head screw cause I got the sleeves+ collars used and haven't gotten around to finding an appropriate set screw).
You can find the correct hex head plugs locally. There's a ball and detent spring behind it, very easy to build.
[This message has been edited by L67 (edited 10-15-2011).]
Originally posted by L67: You can find the correct hex head plugs locally. There's a ball and detent spring behind it, very easy to build.
Its not in any hardware store I've been to, if anyone has extra then be my guest to help me out lol. I'm a lot more concerned about the spring rubbing the sleeve.
It looks like the spring is larger than the flange on the sleeve nut (if it even has one). I would suggest a rubber with a flange on it to center the spring. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Its not in any hardware store I've been to, if anyone has extra then be my guest to help me out lol. I'm a lot more concerned about the spring rubbing the sleeve.
the ones that came with mine had a rubber plug between the set screw and the sleeve. In the past I have found set screws at Lowe's and Home Depot. in the pull out bins.
This past weekend I installed my built coilovers, poly in the control arms and new ball joints. I didn't touch the knuckle/ brake assembly. Since my first drive, I had this scratching noise as if the pads were scraping rust off the rotor- which I thought was normal since the car had been sitting for over a month. It got progressively louder and started squealing VERY loud.
I took some pics of whats going on back there:
Rubbing a tiny bit.. I guess cause I set it to max negative camber??
All of this is after 20 miles of driving on max negative camber. Struts are Monroe, springs are AFCO 12" 250lbs adjusted about 15 turns from the bottom.
I remember in searching that some had a bit of sleeve rubbing, but it was over a LONG period of time.
I wonder if the max negative camber is causing the spring to bow more extreme, and there by rubbing? Excuse me if you already said it, but is it rubbing inside (body side) or outside / front or back worse. Are both sides rubbing equally and in the same place?
I have not had my car out on the road yet... front end lowering & poly build currently... so I have yet to see if mine has any issues. Before I drive it I'm planning to do a home alignment to at least make the car safe to get to an alignment shop. That and to give me some time to allow the springs to settle in before I get it aligned. i would ahve to do it twice.
[This message has been edited by redraif (edited 10-17-2011).]
I remember in searching that some had a bit of sleeve rubbing, but it was over a LONG period of time.
I wonder if the max negative camber is causing the spring to bow more extreme, and there by rubbing? Excuse me if you already said it, but is it rubbing inside (body side) or outside / front or back worse. Are both sides rubbing equally and in the same place?
I have not had my car out on the road yet... front end lowering & poly build currently... so I have yet to see if mine has any issues. Before I drive it I'm planning to do a home alignment to at least make the car safe to get to an alignment shop. That and to give me some time to allow the springs to settle in before I get it aligned. i would ahve to do it twice.
Any updates on your car nitroheadz28?
I finally got the front poly done on mine and the frt 1.5 coil removal completed.
The car looks much better all leveled out! I dropped the rear a few more turns and I'm near the 3 finger mark... in the front I'm at about 2.5 fingers...
Scarey thing is even with the alignment like this > < ... the darn car felt better then it ever did, nice and tight!... but I did straighten out the rear toe before I took it on its 20 mile trip.
So that rear floaty feeling I have been plagued with since I got the car was a combo of: blown motor & tranny mounts, dead suspension bushings, and old soft springs. The poly, new solid rubber motor and tranny mounts, 300lb rear & 1.5 coils cut on the front WS6 (stiffest stock) made all the difference! I was SOOO happy when I was driving my little indy again! Dang, I have missed this car! The 300lb spring rate in the rear felt great.
Im planning to check this weekend to see if I have any rubbing issues
[This message has been edited by redraif (edited 10-27-2011).]
I remember in searching that some had a bit of sleeve rubbing, but it was over a LONG period of time.
I wonder if the max negative camber is causing the spring to bow more extreme, and there by rubbing? Excuse me if you already said it, but is it rubbing inside (body side) or outside / front or back worse. Are both sides rubbing equally and in the same place?
I have not had my car out on the road yet... front end lowering & poly build currently... so I have yet to see if mine has any issues. Before I drive it I'm planning to do a home alignment to at least make the car safe to get to an alignment shop. That and to give me some time to allow the springs to settle in before I get it aligned. i would ahve to do it twice.
Ah whoops I must have completely missed this post. Its rubbing on the outside (facing the wheel well) in about a 30-40mm long patch. Correct both sides have the same exact wear.
I have since gotten 2 alignments, the springs still rub. Will be getting a 3rd alignment tomorrow cause my mechanic didn't understand how to adjust Rodney's ball joints to get the correct camber setting in the front. I'll just leave the springs as is, I'm running 2 5/8" AFCO springs- they are slightly larger than the 2.5" springs most here use so that is probably my issue. I plan on swapping them out when I do my engine swap for a 10" long set. Stupid poly is squeaking in the front a arm- never been exposed to water/ I greased the hell out of em/ only had 200 miles on the conversion . I'll also switch that out for rubber when I do my engine swap, the squeak is annoying as hell!
I checked the car... I have no wear on my sleeves so far. Wonder if it does have to do with the different diameter springs.
You could always make your poly greasable... I did that with all of mine. Here's hoping it keeps the squeeks away
I know but I was short on time, I really needed the asap car as its my DD. I actually don't want poly after doing more research on it a little while ago. The bushings become torn and destroyed after a few years anyway (depending on usage), I'd rather have rubber for the peace of mind. The sad thing is that I had a complete set of Moog rubber bushings/ sleeves that I sold
Its rubbing on the outside (facing the wheel well) in about a 30-40mm long patch. Correct both sides have the same exact wear.
I didn't review your install, but have you verified that each item is constrained concentrically? Do you have any sort of locating feature for the spring under the top 'hat' that prevents the spring from walking around? Do you have either a tight fit or the centering O-Rings,etc installed between the strut and sleeve? The spring is either moving around up top or the threaded sleeve is "rocking" back and forth on the base. Its possible the spring is bowing, but I would think these other two situations would be more common.
I didn't review your install, but have you verified that each item is constrained concentrically? Do you have any sort of locating feature for the spring under the top 'hat' that prevents the spring from walking around? Do you have either a tight fit or the centering O-Rings,etc installed between the strut and sleeve? The spring is either moving around up top or the threaded sleeve is "rocking" back and forth on the base. Its possible the spring is bowing, but I would think these other two situations would be more common.
Hmmm... the sleeve wobbling... I did not think of that. that could do it! With my coleman sleeves they had a metal snap ring that was a SUPER tight fit and holds the sleeve PERFECTLY still. Nitroheadz28 did yours have the snap ring?
I didn't review your install, but have you verified that each item is constrained concentrically? Do you have any sort of locating feature for the spring under the top 'hat' that prevents the spring from walking around? Do you have either a tight fit or the centering O-Rings,etc installed between the strut and sleeve? The spring is either moving around up top or the threaded sleeve is "rocking" back and forth on the base. Its possible the spring is bowing, but I would think these other two situations would be more common.
The sleeves arent moving, its siliconed in place lol. I bought everything minus the struts used and it didn't have the snap ring nor could I find one. I believe you asked me this already and I confirmed that the spring doesn't sit concentrically at the bottom. The top is fine, the spring "walks" on the sleeve adjuster ever so slightly, most likely because the adjuster was designed for a 2.5" ID spring.
Okay, so what is the cone shaped item pictured here for?
It's a top hat. Toss it, find some ricer to sell it to, use it for a paper weight, throw it at unruley neighbors? Lol. really though I wanna say I read here somewhere that someone had big problems using those. Whodeanie sells just the top hats with the needed bushing.
typos...
[This message has been edited by weloveour86se (edited 03-11-2012).]
It's a top hat. Toss it, find some ricer to sell it to, use it for a paper weight, throw it at unruley neighbors? Lol. really though I wanna say I read here somewhere that someone had big problems using those. Whodeanie sells just the top hats with the needed bushing.
typos...
Okay, so i won't worry about them then. What is/was their intended purpose?
Okay, so i won't worry about them then. What is/was their intended purpose?
They are to hold the top of the spring in. Somewhere around PFF is a person that used those and it caused the springs to move all around up top. IIRC they actually sheered the cone part. Wish I could find it, sorry.
Think those cones are for hondas or the like I think.
I'm having a heck of a time trying to find what I want. Can someone help me with my search?
I've tried for 5"/7" shock sleeve, coilover, coil-over, etc...
I'm looking for 350lb springs and 7" sleeves. I'd like to eventually be able to lower the car as low as possible and be able to raise it a bit higher than stock during the winter.
[This message has been edited by Shill (edited 03-11-2012).]
I'm having a heck of a time trying to find what I want. Can someone help me with my search?
I've tried for 5"/7" shock sleeve, coilover, coil-over, etc...
I'm looking for 350lb springs and 7" sleeves. I'd like to eventually be able to lower the car as low as possible and be able to raise it a bit higher than stock during the winter.
Just installed a set of Whodeanies coilovers. 300lb springs with a 2.8. The 350lb spring rate might be too stiff with a 2.8 i think.
Summit has some nice springs, I'm sure there are cheaper ones out there tho. I'ts all about inner and outer diameters of the parts too.
Heres another link. Second link is cheaper but the springs are junk at 400lbs spring rate. I would use just the sleeves and perches from the second link with the Summit springs and a Whodeanie top hat. Get a new KYB or Monroe strut and cut of the spring perch like shown above in this thread. Walla, coilovers.
Shiping costs of each of the parts, time needed to make the mods and good measure for the odd things you will need will add up. It's a worthy cause tho IMHO. Coilovers shoulda been factory I also think. It's that much of an improvement. I cant stress enough how much better my handling is.
Alright, so curious about how the coilovers work for adjustability. When the nut is at the top of the sleeve, the car will be sitting higher, and the bottom will be at its lowest, right? What approximate location on the sleeve will be stock height with a 12" spring as recommended in the OP? right in the middle, top, 3/4 way up?
Alright, so curious about how the coilovers work for adjustability. When the nut is at the top of the sleeve, the car will be sitting higher, and the bottom will be at its lowest, right? What approximate location on the sleeve will be stock height with a 12" spring as recommended in the OP? right in the middle, top, 3/4 way up?
about 1/2 way. heres mine tightened just about 2 turns
I am just about ready to install my coil overs long story short - got the strutts and springs from a member on here - but the coil over sleeves them selves was way worn out due to excessive rubbing, so ordered from summit a new set and the welded 3 tangs onto the spring plate to avoid the spring moving of its centre thus preventing any rubbing on the coil over and a piece of rubber for the spring to rest on
a little close up of how it looks
here is the standard spring housing with 3 notches taken out to accomodate the 3 tangs. (yes you could just use m8 bolts through the holes - but my thinking is in wet weather it would give a little more protection to the upper area of the suspension housing)
here is the completed strutt (minus the original spring housing) - i put on a moog suspension bushing as recommended earlier on in this thread
will post pics once I have fitted and adjusted them
A couple of questions I have... First the springs you guys are using seem kinda soft. I have a Miata which is lighter and I run 530 lbs springs in the front and 350 in the rear. This car is my autocross car, but i want to start doing my Fiero next year. Secondly doesnt want one do a set up of these coil sleeves on the front? All i see is pictures of rear coilovers.
A couple of questions I have... First the springs you guys are using seem kinda soft. I have a Miata which is lighter and I run 530 lbs springs in the front and 350 in the rear. This car is my autocross car, but i want to start doing my Fiero next year. Secondly doesnt want one do a set up of these coil sleeves on the front? All i see is pictures of rear coilovers.
I have never seen the front with coil overs on - as most people either fit lowing springs or cut 1 or 2 coils of the stock spring which is acceptable due to the type of spring on the front - one thing to bear in mind with the front also is that the damper and the spring are located separately not like the rears where the spring fits on to the damper.
thanks Jon. thats what I was wondering about. I am looking to run mine for autocross purposes next year so I would want something a bit stiffer than a regular lowering spring. Have any suggestions?
without going off topic ref front suspension - now I am guessing here (as I am no expert ) what about koni adjustables as you adjust the stiffness of the ride and a set of front lowering springs ( i have suspension techniques) which i got from a member on here who I believe bought just the front set from jc witney then used QA1 12 300 springs in the rear over sachs or kyb strutts with coil overs on.
[This message has been edited by jon m (edited 06-30-2013).]
I just made myself some rear coilovers with my Konis. I got an AFCO coil over kit from Summit Racing for Monroe shocks/struts, 7 inch sleeves. I also got 350# 10 inch springs from summit racing.
I am posting to explain how I got my springs off because it was super easy and required no specialty tools.
1) With your whole car still assembled, blast the exposed threads on the top of the shock with PB blaster or whatever. Clean the threads up if they are corroded.
2) Grab the appropriately sized socket and allen wrench (this is if the impact gun will not get the top nut off)
3) Put the socket on the nut and grab it with vice grips. Insert allen wrench into the hex opening. Turning the vice grips, both of the nuts came right off.
4) Jack the car way up - This decompresses the springs.
5) If the threaded portion of the strut does not go through the hole in the bushing, I used a combination of kicking my wheels down and I took a punch, put it in the hole where the allen wrench goes and hammered until it popped through.
6) By now your spring is decompressed, and I unbolt the strut with an impact wrench from the rear knuckle and remove it, and after I take off the hardware still bolted to the car. When you reassemble there is no compressing of the spring necessary
This saves you having to get spring compressors which are a pain to use, and it is much quicker than using spring compressors. Sorry if everybody knew this already or someone posted it on another page of this thread, I did not feel like reading through all of it.
The 2-1/2" is for where the part (idk what its called XD) the springs sit on. That's why you need springs that also have 2-1/2" dia. Like the ones I posted. The ID of the sleeve is a bit over 2" and slip right on KYB struts and the metal ring the sleeves come with barely fits so that it won't move around the strut.
Check this thread out. will explain a lot better then I could and has lots of pics https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/118751.html I used that as a guide when making mine. I used the same springs as him but not the sleeves as wanted to buy parts from same place so I just found some like it from summit to get everything from one place and that is what I found.
(And yes I'm using a button head screw cause I got the sleeves+ collars used and haven't gotten around to finding an appropriate set screw).
. I'll also switch that out for rubber when I do my engine swap, the squeak is annoying as hell!
