GSXRBOBBY, Those GR-2 struts are not ideal, as they are low-pressure shocks unlike the Gas-A-Justs. But, seeing as it's the best one you can get without stepping up to Konis, it seems most people find them acceptable.
I just haven't found a place that sells a KYB Gas-A-Just strut for a rear 88 Fiero. Or at least they don't have it listed?
And you wont find a place that sells them, just like no one carries the GR2 for the 88. From what I have found, KYB doesnt make rear struts for the 88, you use pre-88 struts on the 88. They work fine with a little grinding on the Pass side knuckle to let the bolt clear.
i downloaded KYB's catalog for 2004 and it does not offer a Gas-A-Just for the 84-88 rear struts. bummer...
Yes it does suck, but its one of the many things we have to deal with when building up a Fiero!
quote
Originally posted by MstangsBware:
And you wont find a place that sells them, just like no one carries the GR2 for the 88. From what I have found, KYB doesnt make rear struts for the 88, you use pre-88 struts on the 88. They work fine with a little grinding on the Pass side knuckle to let the bolt clear.
I remember hearing that before, Also I think its not big deal with not alot of cutting or grinding. I also remember hearing it isn't even needed everytime.
I guess the only other strut out there is the Koni that is worth using?
time to start comparing struts from the front end of other cars (probably imports) to see if we can make em work or you could be creative and make mounting tabs to bolt on some non-strut shocks in addition to the stock struts
Well, my GT is getting a very heavy 472 BB, and THM325-4L. I just bought Hypercoil 10 inch 400# springs. I have the shorter adjusters, so I will be using the stock perch location. What struts would be able to handle a 400# rate? I'm going to build the car with the old stock struts for now, but that's just because I need to know where the strut is going to be and how much room i have when I notch the strut towers for the beast.
You want coilovers to clear you bling wheels. I need em to clear my bigass engine.
[This message has been edited by Azriel (edited 02-18-2005).]
Well, my GT is getting a very heavy 472 BB, and THM325-4L. I just bought Hypercoil 10 inch 400# springs. I have the shorter adjusters, so I will be using the stock perch location. What struts would be able to handle a 400# rate? I'm going to build the car with the old stock struts for now, but that's just because I need to know where the strut is going to be and how much room i have when I notch the strut towers for the beast.
You want coilovers to clear you bling wheels. I need em to clear my bigass engine.
400 lbs spring? That is a heavy spring, I think it maybe to much even though you have extra weight of the auto trans.
alright thanX guys! + for yas well im gonna call up collman right now get 7" Coil-Over Kit (2.04 I.D.) and call up summit and get tell them i want 300lbs 12" springs with a 2 5/8" ID now since im getting the 7" should i consider going 10" spring? since i do wanna lower it? i just dont wanna run out of room on the botom of the coil over and it would probably look nicer with the 10 becuase it would sit maybe in the middle of the ciol over part... thanX
Well I have a problem, I called up summit racing and they said in a 12" or 10" they only have the 2.5 in. Diameter OR 3.5 (dont need the 3.5)... what should I do now? I just ordered KYB struts for my 85 Fiero and wanted to try to get everything ordered today so they would be here intime for march break so I could slap these babys in thanks Brad
[This message has been edited by KillerX (edited 03-05-2005).]
The Groung Control coil over conversion kit for the 84-87 rear struts is only about $200 and it comes as a kit why wouldn't you just use the kit? they have any spring rate that you need.
The Groung Control coil over conversion kit for the 84-87 rear struts is only about $200 and it comes as a kit why wouldn't you just use the kit? they have any spring rate that you need.
Can you post a link to their site so we can checjk it out?
the link is http://www.ground-control-store.com, then there will be a row of small pictures click on the 3rd last on the right (the one that says ALL OTHER MAKES) then click on chevrolet/pontiac , then scroll down to the one that says: Coilover conversion kit, 84-87 pontiac fiero rear
or on www.shox.com when you search for the pontiac fiero it will be on there for the same price,and they are on www.nolimitmotorsport.com you have to sscroll down to ground control open it at the top click on applications click on pontiac then on click on the part number for pontiac fiero the price here is $189 and you get free shipping on it in the continental us but the dont carry the kit for kyb's.
[This message has been edited by fatmerk (edited 04-20-2005).]
Bump TTT and a question. If I wanted to use Konis, would Coleman 2.08 ID Coil Over Kit be any easier to use than the 2.04 ID kit? Is that 0.04 inches going to make life easier, or still involve removing some nut, and releasing some gas?
I wouldnt bother too much about warranty because Koni's WILL work for a lifetime! Or two. About seven years ago I was able to reuse the front Koni shocks from my crashed 86GT on my new 87GT... After all these years they still work great...!
I am looking to do this nice coilover idea sometime, my lowering springs already come loose when I jack up the car and I want to lower it some more....so coilover is the best solution. Now I wonder if someone has done a side by side comparison with a modified fieroshock+coilover setup, with already existing coilover kits for "popular" cars. With a good match you wouldnt have to mod anything plus it might be easier to get.. I guess the 2 bolt holes need to line up with the knuckle....the length would be less important because its adjustable anyway...
Hey, did anybody tell you, there's a dent in the front of your car? I seem to remember this from a while back... how fast were you going when you met the tree? You were lucky, and that is a SAFE car!
damn.....i just think....damn! any crash you can walk, er hop away from... Your only injury looks to be a broken foot? amazing! that is the worst front collision i have ever seen on a Fiero. Either you were very lucky, or the Fiero is a REALLY good front impactor. Glad you made it out to drive another car!
on a side note, i had no idea Koni's were so resilliant. I appreciate mine a lot more now, but i dont think i want to cut them for this set-up, I would rather cut a set of KYB's to keep the Koni warrentee intact. cool thread
[This message has been edited by Roland (edited 08-05-2005).]
Why pay 200 for only rear coil over kit? You could save some cash and just buy some coilover sleeves off ebay. Doesn't really matter which ones, as long as they have more than a rubber band holding then on. Then go to jegs or summit and order some QA1 progressive or linear rate springs. QA1 coilovers for cheaper. Eibach is cool but QA1 is better. That's like $150
Fie Ro - How the hell did you survive that wreck? How fast were you going? What did you hit?
[This message has been edited by goatnipples2002 (edited 08-11-2005).]
Bump TTT and a question. If I wanted to use Konis, would Coleman 2.08 ID Coil Over Kit be any easier to use than the 2.04 ID kit? Is that 0.04 inches going to make life easier, or still involve removing some nut, and releasing some gas?
You'll still have to blow off some gas. I've done exactly that.
What does everyone think of QA1 10 inch progressive rate 225-475lb springs? Too firm? Will the progressive rate be good or bad with a coil over setup?
Progressive rate springs have agood side and a bad side, as do linear rate springs. Progressive rate springs get stiffer the more they compress. The 225lb would be a nice comfy ride when cruising, but would increase to about 475 the more they compress. Riding around on 475lb would really suck if you hit a bump. I had a civic with linear rate springs, 400lb front and 350lb rear on koni reds. It was the $hit. But I had 7 inch springs and the springs were too stiff for the damper of the struts. I would bounce, not very good. Some people don't like progressive because they are soft at first then they become stiff, they seem to call the springs unpredictable.
Linear rate springs are the same no matter what, some like these because they don't change and become more predictable. Now if you want a super stiff spring rate like 450-500lb then I would definetly get a progressive rate spring, just because riding on a spring that stiff on city streets will shake you and your car loose, the ride would just suck. For a softer spring rate like 250-300 go linear.
What do you want.....stock replacement, lower ride height, drag spring or autocross.
The main purpose of coilovers is so you can raise or lower you car as you want, adjustability. On some cars like fieros it allows the use of a wider rim/tire combo. Any spring can go on a coilover, what makes the difference is if the shock/strut damper rate can handle the spring rate.
[This message has been edited by goatnipples2002 (edited 08-11-2005).]
The MAIN purpose of height adjustable suspensions is ACTUALLY for weight jacking. Ride height is secondary, although adjusted on competition cars for aerodynamic reasons, not just to lower the car.
For handling, get linear rate springs. The damping coefficient of the suspension is the relationship of spring rate to shock valving. This is constant with linear rate springs. It's all over the place with progressive rate springs. Can't match a damper to a spring with variable rate. Progressive rate springs are a COMPROMISE to make a semi-handling suspension easier to drive on the street.
10" is generally too short for the rear of a Fiero. Struts have near 1:1 motion ratio and thus require much more spring travel than a Honda with a 2:1 motion ratio. The Honda can get away with much less spring travel than the Fiero.
This is so confusing. I am mechanically inclined, but I don't understand spring rates, etc. All I want is to be able to change my ride height as my car changes (new rims, etc.) and have good sporty streetable handling. So I was thinking 275 lb springs would meet my needs, right? Then I was thinking if I put the sleeve on the strut perch I'd want 10 inch springs; however, if I cut off the strut perch I'd want 12 inch springs. But now I hear 10 inch is too short? For comparison, what are the stock spring rates?
This is so confusing. I am mechanically inclined, but I don't understand spring rates, etc. All I want is to be able to change my ride height as my car changes (new rims, etc.) and have good sporty streetable handling. So I was thinking 275 lb springs would meet my needs, right? Then I was thinking if I put the sleeve on the strut perch I'd want 10 inch springs; however, if I cut off the strut perch I'd want 12 inch springs. But now I hear 10 inch is too short? For comparison, what are the stock spring rates?
Stock spring rates for an '88 Fiero (all models) are 142lb/in rear and 205lb/in front (https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Archives/Archive-000001/HTML/20050119-2-054238.html) 12" spring with the spring perch cut off and full length sleeves works perfect.
that seems too soft for a fiero and I thought the stiffer springs belong in the back since there is more weight there? I would run a spring rate from anywhere of 250 to about 350.
I am not really familiar with suspension but i was wondering if the same concept your using for the rear would work with the front as well, I want to lower my car all the way around and i just thought this would be a good option thanks for the help. also bump to get this back on page 1, and great write up fierohoho, it made my mind on doing this.
I am not really familiar with suspension but i was wondering if the same concept your using for the rear would work with the front as well, I want to lower my car all the way around and i just thought this would be a good option thanks for the help.
Totally different between the front and back suspension setup, several different ways to lower the front and lots of good threads will come up on the subject using the search fucntion.
that seems too soft for a fiero and I thought the stiffer springs belong in the back since there is more weight there? I would run a spring rate from anywhere of 250 to about 350.
I'm not saying those are ideal specs, but that has b een prooven to be the stock setup for 88s. I upped my rear spring rate to 175 when I put my heavier motor in . My car feels great on the street; I haven't taken it to a track yet though. Keep in mind that there is never a 1:1 ratio of spring to wheel movement. The spring location and suspension design can change the leverage of the spring, thus changing the required spring rate.
[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 08-14-2005).]
Now I've seen everything from 175 to 400 lb/in springs for the rear. Let me post this as a question. I drive my 88 GT alot around town, and on short trips up to 2 hours on the highway because like all of us, I love driving my fun little car. I do not race or take it to the drag strip, although I'd like to take it on a course some day. It has the stock 2.8 V6. What spring rate do yall suggest for coilover springs put over KYB struts?
As a second question, what spring rate would I want if I swapped the engine with the 3800 SC all else remaining equal?
Thanks in advance for the input, and +'s for good advice.
Custom 85 SE/87 Coupe
