replying so I can later (+) you . .. glad to have this thread saved on my computer; i never would have thought pulling the engine would be possible w/o a lot of #&@! (hopefully this saves my fingers some grief, should i have to pull anything sooner)
[This message has been edited by Kuta (edited 01-04-2008).]
Todd, this is for your use in demonstrating how to cut into the frame to free those damn cradle bolts:
For those who have not had the fun of cutting into the frame to loosen the top of a cradle bolt, here is what the bastard looks like when it is out. I had to cut to get to each rear nut.
and here is how the thin metal in the frame holds the nut down -pretty flimsy stuff:
I had that problem on my Formula, I was able to remove the nuts without cutting the frame. I broke both rear bolts, then punched the nuts up into the frame and pulled them out the back. Then welded new nuts onto the diamond shaped plate and fished them back into place through the frame again.
------------------ www.FieroDomain.com "If any car is both the parade and the rain, it is the Fiero"
great writeup you did there, this is very helpful to someone like me who needs visual aids'. Hopefully this will limit the quesitons i have when it comes to taking the 2.8 out. Now, if only someone could come up with an equally good tutorial on putting a 3800sc in its place :P Thanks a bunch.
I had that problem on my Formula, I was able to remove the nuts without cutting the frame. I broke both rear bolts, then punched the nuts up into the frame and pulled them out the back. Then welded new nuts onto the diamond shaped plate and fished them back into place through the frame again.
Todd, don't worry, I'll be able to help you replace those Fieros one day. Just worry about the little one for now and guilt your wife something terribly for yur sacrifice.
Looks like a lot of work to me to get it out the bottom..
I just removed the deck-lid, unhooked the wiring harness, disconnected the fuel lines, all 3 motor mounts, separated transmission from the engine and popped it right out the top. And except for the transmission inspection plate i didn't know about, it was painless and quick and mostly from the top of the car. The only thing that was hard was getting the exhaust manifold loose in the front because the 2 bolts were rusted solid. A quick cut with the Dremel and they were off. It was my first time and took a while but if i had to do it again it would be pretty brainless to do.
Getting it back in wasn't too much harder. Just took some maneuvering with a friend to get the transmission to click back in place.
Car stayed in place on the ground the whole time. no need for a realignment, or deal with the exhaust, brakes, cradle bolts, clutch hydraulics, car sitting up in the air, etc.
[This message has been edited by User00013170 (edited 01-06-2008).]
On step 35 when you loosen the front cradle bolts, I go ahead an pull them and replace them with large phillips screw drivers. Doing so makes step 37 really easy because they slide right out.
On step 35 when you loosen the front cradle bolts, I go ahead an pull them and replace them with large phillips screw drivers. Doing so makes step 37 really easy because they slide right out.
Very good write up!
I did that too but the point of the bolt and the point of the screw driver would slip too often so I got myself a steel rod, wrapped a piece of grip tape around one end and drilled the other end with a slightly convex hole. One hammer blow and you have a bolt launcher!
Two little pieces of advice I have: One is to put the front wheels on ramps so you dont have to worry about the cherry picker hitting the back of the car and you dont need the extra links. The next is to leave the brake lines connected to the calipers. just hang the calipers with a coat hanger to the car so as not to damage the lines. This step saves you time after the swap- no bleeding the brakes.
Man, why could you not have done this a few weeks ago? I was looking for something like this as I just recently pulled the engine and transmission on my GT.
Man, why could you not have done this a few weeks ago? I was looking for something like this as I just recently pulled the engine and transmission on my GT.
I'm actually surprised no one has ever posted a thread like it before. I'm going to be starting a new thread soon (as soon as this GT is finished) on pulling the 4 banger; got an Indy with a rod knock.
Ha, in june ill be doing this on my bro's fiero i broke. It had a rod kmock, now it has a rod CLACK CLACK CLACK thanks for the write-up, do you think you could email it to me
Ha, in june ill be doing this on my bro's fiero i broke. It had a rod kmock, now it has a rod CLACK CLACK CLACK thanks for the write-up, do you think you could email it to me
The easiest way to upload a lot of pictures is the Gallery Remote, it logs into the gallery, then you just drag all the pictures you want onto the window and click "upload." I just used it to upload about 30 images, just had to select all and drag them on.
The offer is open for any articles you may create.
[This message has been edited by Xanth (edited 01-28-2008).]
The easiest way to upload a lot of pictures is the Gallery Remote, it logs into the gallery, then you just drag all the pictures you want onto the window and click "upload." I just used it to upload about 30 images, just had to select all and drag them on.
The offer is open for any articles you may create.
Never heard of Gallery remote. What is it and where can you get it?
hey thanks for the email, except all the pictures are in PFF code i think, none of them show up in microsoft word, do you think you could re email this to me with the pics?
hey thanks for the email, except all the pictures are in PFF code i think, none of them show up in microsoft word, do you think you could re email this to me with the pics?
thanks
jesterking33@hotmail.com
Nothing wrong with the pics. Check your settings. Your host may have filtered them out.
I printed your instructions back about a month ago and put them in a folder.
On Tuesday I used them to pull the engine from my '88. Went right down the numbers. Everything worked great. I even had the problem with the rear cradle bolts, but used the hints from the other threads mentioned to get them out.
The only thing I would do differently next time (actually when I put the new engine back in) is to put some 2 X 12 spacers under the front wheels to get it a little higher. With the front bumper touching the concrete, I only had 3/8" clearance from the top of the engine to the underside of the frame coming out.
GREAT writeup. Congradulations.
Plus for you.
------------------ ____________________________________________ "Of all the things I have lost during my lifetime, I miss my mind the most."
