Great writeup, but I would like to recommend one change. I do not like to pick the car up by the trunk latch, because it bends the latch. My modification is to remove the trunk latch and replace it with a piece of flat scrap steel, with two holes drilled for the latch bolts and a large hole to allow the crane hook connection. This also has the effect of moving the crane about an inch rearward, making it easier to slide the dolly out. The scrap steel that I used was the spacer that is bewteen the rear struts and the space frame. It is about 6-8" in diameter, 3/16" thick, and already has a big hole for the hook. I only had to drill two holes in it. I used the latch bolts to hold the scrap steel as these are higher grade bolts. Jim
Just as a reminder guys/gals, I am not monitoring this thread daily so if you want a copy be sure to hit the EMAIL button at the top of this post to ask for one. I check my emails regularly.
Just now doing a V-6 pull with a 4-Speed Tranny so I will post some pics of the 4-speed removal procedure. Not much different from the 5-Speed but there are one or two things worth noting, stay tuned for pics.
used this guide 2x my modified fiero had a couple snags with things that were re-located now taking the parts car cradle out and the front bolts wont budge I am going to try a bit more hammering after that i will cut the heads of the bolts off with an angle grinder i would prefer not cutting them with gas lines in the area lets hope i dont burn the garage down
I am getting ready to pull an engine assy. Is there a idea height for the dolly. I have one from another project that is 8 inches tall. The one shown in the here is maybe 2 inches taller. Will that make a difference?
i am getting close to my drop out day i have read this thread over and over so i think it should be straight forward but i am a bit nervous, i have a hoist and air tools available, but i hope i dont run into any snags i only have a few days on the hoist car has no rust anywhere 3800 will be in soon
I didn't read every page of this post, but I'd like to add something in the event that no one has yet. If the carpeting in the trunk area is pulled back on the wall opposite of the trunk latch, a main frame support will be visible. It has holes that are perfect for a heavy duty chain, i hooked up mine to the hoist and had it up to the ceiling without beating the hell out of my trunk latch. Unfortunately i ended up pulling the motor out the top of the car instead because the cradle bushings froze, but you get the point haha
Sorry to be awy for a while guys but work is a killer lately. I had a HD crash on my old computer with the PDF version of this on it so I need to do a new one before I can send it out to anyone. Hang in there
Sorry to be awy for a while guys but work is a killer lately. I had a HD crash on my old computer with the PDF version of this on it so I need to do a new one before I can send it out to anyone. Hang in there
Nice write up, one I'm sure to reference in the future I'm sure. You think that anyone might still have a copy of the PDF guide that you had sent them before, just for a reference until you get a complete new one written up? Would like to get a copy of it if possible...
The Aero front ends are lower to the ground then other models. How high does the front end have to start so that when the back end is raised the front does not hit? I have blocks that raise the front end 4 ½ inches. Is that enough?
------------------ 88 GT 5 Speed Black with gray interior 3800 SCII Swap In Progress
"Real integrity is doing the right thing, knowing that nobody's going to know whether you did it or not."
The Aero front ends are lower to the ground then other models. How high does the front end have to start so that when the back end is raised the front does not hit? I have blocks that raise the front end 4 ½ inches. Is that enough?
I put my GT front on those poly ramps when I do this (about 8" tall.) At full "tilt" the nose is about 2" from the floor.
Sorry I missed this when you first posted it, Toddster....but I have your old PDF copy of that. I do agree that it is time to freshen it up, but might be easier to start with the old one.
The Aero front ends are lower to the ground then other models. How high does the front end have to start so that when the back end is raised the front does not hit? I have blocks that raise the front end 4 ½ inches. Is that enough?
You don't need to raise the front of the car and here is my proof.
I jacked the car up with a 4x4 across the bottom of the car where the jacking points are (with the jack in the middle of the car) like so
got the motor out with plenty of clearance and could even jack the car higher if necessary.
Many thanks to Trevor for sending me his saved copy of the word version of this thread. My old PC crashed and took the saved PDF and Word version with it. So now I have a good word version again to share with everyone. If you need it, just send an email and I will forward you a copy.
This a sweet thread i had no idea hooking up a cherry picker up to trunk latch was the way to raise tje car up to slide the cradle out this will help out alot when im gonna be starting my 3800 swap
Well no, using the trunk latch isn't the right way to do it. I was just talking with someone who did have the whole latch section tear out and the car fell! (Yes they were doing it carefully and on a perfectly rust free trunk). FFS, don't do it unless you really don't care about your car and possible injuries. Now that I've said that, go ahead and do it anyway.
I'll proceed to do it skitime's way (a.k.a. the factory manual way, i.e. the right way). Great post though. I've had this bookmarked since the beginning and I'm finally breaking my cradle bolts loose today. I hope to have the engine out this weekend!
Many thanks to Trevor for sending me his saved copy of the word version of this thread. My old PC crashed and took the saved PDF and Word version with it. So now I have a good word version again to share with everyone. If you need it, just send an email and I will forward you a copy.
If you've made any updates to this, could you send me a copy with the updates?
I read in one of these threads that the front wheels should not be blocked because they need to roll. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's unnecessary and very dangerous. Floor jacks have wheels to allow them to roll because the arm moves toward the pivot point as they raise anyway. They stay in contact with the frame (or in this case the 4x4) and the base moves to accommodate the pivoting jack arm and the pivoting of the car. Having the front wheels blocked is fine because the jack will accomodate this, and not blocking it could let the car roll and fall off of the jack or stands.
I read in one of these threads that the front wheels should not be blocked because they need to roll. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's unnecessary and very dangerous. Floor jacks have wheels to allow them to roll because the arm moves toward the pivot point as they raise anyway. They stay in contact with the frame (or in this case the 4x4) and the base moves to accommodate the pivoting jack arm and the pivoting of the car. Having the front wheels blocked is fine because the jack will accomodate this, and not blocking it could let the car roll and fall off of the jack or stands.
I think what the person who said "don't chock the wheels" was trying to say is not to chock them from behind. Chock the front side. As you jack the car up the front wheels will tend to roll back a few inches.
I've made some updates to this thread which incorporate many of the tips from other posters, new ideas, and corrected some typos even. So my newest version is much cleaner with more details and clearer pics. If you have an old word version just shoot me an email and I will send out the latest version.
This thread helped me out greatly im doing my first swap... first major anything mechanically so this was just great. and for those of you that are afraid the cherry picker isnt too safe to lift the whole car up over the engine then well i took it the next step farther and i lifted the whole car up with the latch before i dismantled anything to put the jack stands under it. It did so with ease. Also to make it even more unsafe i was only using a 1 ton cherry picker from harbor freight. I had to hit the latch with a rubber mallet to get the deck lid to shut properly again because it bent it where it was sticking up a little too much.
What's the title on that Fiero look like, Todd. Did you get it from the Fiero theives John Szpara and Andrew Villsenor?
Really; whose car is that you're stripping?
Just a friendly reminder from a Fiero supporter - if you want to be one of us, you can't steal Fieros from others.
In the first place Mike, I bought that car in this thread from someone totally unrelated to the Fiero Club. Secondly, John and Andrew are not thieves and to even suggest that they are makes you look like a complete idiot to ANYONE who knows them. Considering John put a roof over your head when you couldn't keep a job to save your life and used his shop, tools, and parts to make money for yourself without so much as a thanks, let alone rent, one would think you might be show a little gratitude but that is your business. This thread is MY business. It is one of the most referenced threads on PFF and your trolling it up is NOT going to go over well with ANYONE. Take your dirty laundry somewhere else.
I'm sure Todd has a legal title to every car he's had. Are you aware what a legal title says on it? It usually has a current address on it so when you abandon your car and it's towed away the tow company can find the owner. Whuffo, do you know where your titles are? Do you know where the cars are that you used to own? Yeah....I thought so. Towed away and gone forever. You should talk to the tow yards that sold your cars and find out that the laws are. Once you abandon the car the tow company tries to contact the registered owners.....at the address on the title. You weren't there? Oops....you lose. Don't blame others for your stupidity.
My pleasure. And For the rest of you I have a new updated version of the word and pdf file with added comments and tips
You might update the part about crushing the brake hose with vicegrips, our old hoses are very likely to become permanently damaged by crushing them enough to pinch them closed inside, no matter how soft the outside padding material used may be. If one insists on disconnecting the calipers it's better to use a rubber or silicone plug in the end, use vacuum plugs from the auto parts store. Also, you might add the tip that if you don't want to disconnect the brake lines you can unbolt the calipers and leave them with the car, hung up to the steel inner fender bodywork using bent coathangers. This option eliminates a mandatory brake bleeding session, which some readers would probably want to do.
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Originally posted by Toddster:
This thread is ... one of the most referenced threads on PFF...
If view count is any indication, my steering column thread has almost fifty nine thousand views compared this thread's fourteen thousand. FWIW...
[This message has been edited by JazzMan (edited 08-05-2011).]
You might update the part about crushing the brake hose with vicegrips, our old hoses are very likely to become permanently damaged by crushing them enough to pinch them closed inside, no matter how soft the outside padding material used may be. If one insists on disconnecting the calipers it's better to use a rubber or silicone plug in the end, use vacuum plugs from the auto parts store. Also, you might add the tip that if you don't want to disconnect the brake lines you can unbolt the calipers and leave them with the car, hung up to the steel inner fender bodywork using bent coathangers. This option eliminates a mandatory brake bleeding session, which some readers would probably want to do.
I actually debated this with myself. I don't recommend Vise grips for the brake lines, I recommended a line clamp that you can get from the auto store or just tucking them aside. I elected not to mention the option of leaving the capilers attached for a couple of reasons; the first is that I truly recommend bleeding the brakes. Dot 3 is hydro static and I have seen very few break lines that did not need a good cleanout. As such, I think it would suck big time to swap out that engine only to have your brakes fail at the wrong time. But also, in the rust belt, it is hard to get the calipers off sometimes and not worth the trouble of doing it on the car but easier with the cradle out of the way. Naturally, people can do it anyway they like but I find it a rather simple operation to bleed the brakes after the install and in the end, I believe it saves more time and leads to a better result.
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If view count is any indication, my steering column thread has almost fifty nine thousand views compared this thread's fourteen thousand. FWIW...
I must account for about 30 of those clicks myself. a GREAT thread! When it comes to valuable Fiero content, I am down-right a-political.
Todd, Appreciate the quick response. The manual is color printed and bound and will be used this weekend. This is going to save many hours work....a plus for you.
