I would first like to say I do not take credit for this fix. It was found searching old posts and thought it be nice to take the info found and make a nice easy guide.
This will be a quick and easy fix with pics I did on both of my doors. The rattling was driving me crazy and being I live in PA we have a lot of bumps. I hope I did not over do the post.
The rubber of the latch assembly shrinks with age and the ware down in the strike bolt causing the most hated rattle over bumps.
The larger diameter of the replacement bolt makes up for the rubber shrinking in the door latch stopping the rattles.
I hope this is found useful
Thanks Jeff
------------------ 85 SE 2m4 2.4 L4 5 speed 87 GT 2.8 V6 5 speed Gold and Gray with 94 FWD Cavalier 5 Speed 88 Formula CJB T-Top Project i think its going to stay Formula
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You can also pick up some rubber bumper stops to put on a few places on the jams (top & bottom rear). Junkyard will yield some that just stick on and some with a screw in the middle.
I also get annoyed by dash and door rattles. Even my Mercedes has some door rattles and theyre latches are way overengineered.
If you have trouble getting the old striker off, I tried a star point bit, it just striped out the striker. I tried a pair of Vice grips, a large pair of channel lock pliers, Use a small pipe wrench, it works like a charm.
------------------ When I read about the EVILS of drinking, I gave up READING.
[This message has been edited by jimlong67 (edited 12-11-2012).]
"Needa" brand is #384212. Took care of this today, seems to do the trick, thanks! Those old ones were seriously stubborn though. You will need an impact driver for sure
Just wanted to add, that I did this fix as well, and it worked perfectly. I didn't know my doors could be so sturdy! One thing to remember, it takes a little extra effort to open/close the doors. Make sure your door is fully closed when you go driving.
This helped my driver's door somewhat, but didn't get rid of the rattle completely. However, wrapping some electrical tape several times around the striker for some extra cushioning silenced it the rest of the way. It really needs that cushioning, when you shut the door it now feels firm, secure and quiet. I assume that the layer of rubber in the door latch originally has worn through and is mostly metal-on-metal now.
------------------ My Fiero: 1986 Pontiac Fiero GT, V6, 4-speed manual
You can also pick up some rubber bumper stops to put on a few places on the jams (top & bottom rear). Junkyard will yield some that just stick on and some with a screw in the middle.
I also get annoyed by dash and door rattles. Even my Mercedes has some door rattles and theyre latches are way overengineered.
The Ford striker bolts completely rid my 88 of the rattle, you could actually push pull the drivers door 1/2" with the window down and here it bounce over bumps. Passenger side is never used and it was fine but replaced it and it also shuts firmer.
It does have 100k on it, but I would suggest anyone that does or even doesn't currently have an issue to replace them. Seems the stock may be a tad too loose.
The Ford striker bolts completely rid my 88 of the rattle, you could actually push pull the drivers door 1/2" with the window down and here it bounce over bumps. Passenger side is never used and it was fine but replaced it and it also shuts firmer.
It does have 100k on it, but I would suggest anyone that does or even doesn't currently have an issue to replace them. Seems the stock may be a tad too loose.
What is the Ford part #?
[This message has been edited by carnut122 (edited 06-14-2020).]
I'm scratching my head over the striker pn#38421. The threads are imperial, but the Fiero is metric. #38421 has 7/16"-14 threads. The Fiero ('88) is M12...I think M12x1.5. This part number won't work. Unless all you're interested in is using the plastic bushings from the part. Please correct me if I'm wrong. This is true for my car. #38421 now just sits in my junk box.
------------------ Stanton '88 Formula, red on gray
The truth hurts, eh?
