Lots of people switch to a gas strut to compensate for the weight of adding a Wing on a decklid. I'm not sure why they don't simply adjust the tension of the torque rods - maybe they don't know it's possible.
Here's how... can be done in 10 minutes and you don't need to unbolt anything. (thanks to buddycraig who's pics I borrowed)
The torque rods attach with a bolt to the decklid and slip under the opposite side decklid hinge.
There will be a pin in the bottom area of each decklid hinge along with 2 other holes as illustrated.
Moving that pin 1 hole back toward the trunk will increase tension.
By using a tie-strap around the lower U-end of the torque rod, it can be pulled back allowing the pin to be moved. Be sure NOT to pull down as you pull back because the rod could drop out of place. It's a pain to put back. More: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...040223-2-043677.html
Here, it's been moved from the middle hole to the rear hole. The same can be done on the other side if needed. Moving the pin forward will decrease tension - for those who have removed the wing making the decklid lighter.
Can't wait to get home tonight and try this. #$^%$ Deck lid has been knocking me in the head for years, all because I didn't know about this THANKS for the info.
The Torque Rods come in different strengths and a spot of color on each rod identifies the deck lid configuration they were designed to support. If the paint is worn, faded or missing, you can also tell by the RPO code what torque rod should have been on the car.
Red = plain White = Spoiler (RPO code D80) Blue = Luggage carrier (RPO code V56)
There is also the adjustment holes to 'fine tune' them. The torque rod retaining pin seems to come from the factory in the center of the 3 available holes. The Shop Manual says "To increase tension on torque rod, move the pin rearward one hole." But, be VERY CAREFUL! There's a lot of tension there.
If you do a search of PFF, there are many threads on this topic.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-14-2015).]
When you use the electric trunk popper or just the key, how far should the deck lid come up? barley, a few inches, or open all the way?
Just unlocks and pops up to clear latch (as my car did when new) and should stay up once you manually put the decklid up.
It's only when something is changed - wing added or removed, or torque rods weakened or replaced etc. - that it needs adjustment to find the right setting. I sure as hell don't want it flying open as some guys get when they remove the wing, or hitting me in the head when a slight breeze "breathes" on it.
Well, a seeming easy repair has turned into a nightmare. I looked at my car last night and found out that my adjustment pin was in the most forward hole. Perfect. I thought. I can move it rearward and increase the tension on the decklid and solve the problem I've had for at least 20 years.
I used my ratching strap just as describe to pull out the rod and then pulled the pin. However when I put the pin in the new slot the pin apparently did not engage the rod, and/or the rod slipped off my hook as I was releasing the tension on my strap. So now the the 'U' in the torsion rod is sitting too low and will not engage the pin even if I try to get it back in the original hole. I can't find anything to pry against, so I have no way to raise it. I've made the problem worse than when I started.
Anyone have suggestions on how I can the rod to re-enage with the pin? I am guessing I have to take the rod loose on the other side now at the hinge to release the tension on it ????
No dice. Even after disconnecting the other side of the torsion rod from the deck lid, I still can't get it to hook on the pin when I pull it back. The whole "U" part of the rod is too low and too far toward the center of the car. I've tried prying on it but it won't move enough, plus hard to get leverage without tearing something else up. Ideas?
Well, I don't quite understand what the problem is. When the pins are removed, that releases enough tension to actually take the torsion rods out of there (if desired). Take the second pin out and see if that helps.
Post a picture of what you're dealing with.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-16-2015).]
No dice. Even after disconnecting the other side of the torsion rod from the deck lid, I still can't get it to hook on the pin when I pull it back. The whole "U" part of the rod is too low and too far toward the center of the car. I've tried prying on it but it won't move enough, plus hard to get leverage wit else up. Ideas?
Can you remove the deck lid from the hinge? If so, set something against the glass so the hinges don't pop against the glass. With the deck lid removed, and the tension off you should be able to make your adjustment.
With the deck lid removed, and the tension off you should be able to make your adjustment.
Jason, what advantage is there to taking the decklid off? The hinges will only go so far with the safety straps intact. As long as the decklid is in a vertical position (which takes tension off the torsion rods), removing the decklid accomplishes nothing here IMO.
Jason, what advantage is there to taking the decklid off? The hinges will only go so far with the safety straps intact. As long as the decklid is in a vertical position (which takes tension off the torsion rods), removing the decklid accomplishes nothing here IMO.
With the deck lid off, would that provide more leverage and less tension? I think the torsion bar is bolted in the center of the hinge, and can be removed independently from the hinge and safety strap.
Here is a picture of the problem. Notice how the 'U' part of the torsion bar is about an inch away from from the bracket. Before I started fooling with this, the path was along that of the white arrow, almost touching the bracket.
When I pull the bar outward with the ropes, the condition gets worse. What you can't see because its inside that area that I'm calling the bracket, is that part of the 'U' which is suppose to engage the pin does not because it is sitting below where it would hook on the pin. So I can put the pin in the hole but because its not touching the bar, I can pull it back out with my fingers after releasing the ropes and of course the bar provides no support to the lid.
Hopefully this is clear. I understand I may need to remove the deck lid, but am just looking for confirmation that is going to get me to where I need to be.
[This message has been edited by edfiero (edited 07-17-2015).]
When I pull the bar outward with the ropes, the condition gets worse.
I've been able to release the tension and move the pins using nothing but a piece of rope and a three foot length of 2x4, so I don't know what exactly is going on there. I suspect the one torsion bar has come out of position and needs to be put back, probably by pulling the end of the rod away from the firewall and up. I'll have a look at one of my Fieros today to refresh my memory how this all works.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-17-2015).]
Remove the upper and lower bolts to remove the deck lid. Place something against the glass so if the bar springs it wont break the glass. Remove the center torx bolt. You will need a special socket for that. That should free up all tension and make adjustment very easy.
I understand I may need to remove the deck lid, but am just looking for confirmation that is going to get me to where I need to be.
I'm of the opinion that you don't need to remove the decklid (or unbolt the other end of the torsion rod) to get things back in place. Jason and I seem to be in disagreement.
In the image below, the red arrow indicates where the out of place torsion rod needs to go. It should be located behind the other rod, parallel to it. I believe there's actually a "nub" on the bracket that the rod sort of clips behind.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-18-2015).]
Patrick....I agree with WHERE the rod needs to go. My problem is how to get it there. I've try prying against it, but wont stay. As much as I dont want to, I think the solution is going to be removing the lid to release all the tension on the rod.
Patrick....I agree with WHERE the rod needs to go. My problem is how to get it there. I've try prying against it, but wont stay. As much as I dont want to, I think the solution is going to be removing the lid to release all the tension on the rod.
You need to pull it out and pry it up at the same time and it will accommodate up in place, ....
Thanks for the instructions, pumps off and deck lid now has the correct tension on it to hold it up. Strong rods I must say.i reinstalled my useless chrome strut tower bar back on . I like chrome.
Warning, I read every post and even purchased new ratcheting straps from HD. It only took about two minutes to mess up the tension bar. No one explained that when the tension bar is pulled (by the strap) toward the tail lights, it can drop down toward the ground and out of position. My car is like new with no rust and I will blame myself. After reading and re reading everything on the subject, I figured all I would do is break the rear glass trying to get the bar back I the bracket. I decided to remove the torsion bar and purchase the strut from Rodney Dickman. If you are brave, maybe have someone assist you with a board to keep the tension bar from falling. Good Luck
Can someone help me out here? I've read so so many posts about getting the torsion bars out and am still thinking i'll have shattered glass. The way I see it: -Wrap a ratchet strap at the u-bend at the bottom and pull toward trunk. -Pull out pin, and slowly release tension by letting out ratchet strap. -Unbolt safety screw at trunk lid?
The last step is where I am unsure. Is the tension gone enough from removing the pin, that you can just unbolt the safety screw at the trunk lid? You don't need to hold anything down? Thanks, Andrew
Make sure that the straps are secured to the tension bar as you tighten the strap, go slow. As I stated on my 88 GT, the tension bar started to drop down to the ground and I was unable to get it back to the elevation needed to insert the pin a new hole. After the tension bar dropped down, I eventually let the strap loosen slowly. It would hurt to take a piece of plywood (cover with a blanket) at set it in front of the rear window for added safety. Once the tension barn is loose, I had to maneuver it so that it would come out of the car. BE SURE THAT you have a Broom Handle to Keep the TRUNK OPEN, one bar wont hold the lid open. Also the strap hook can harm the rubber trunk weather stripping, mine was already torn in two places.
.JPG)
Anyway, you got it back in. 
