Jazz, I was curious about something. When I switched from 15" wheels to 16" wheels, my car suddenly developed an intermittent shudder in the steering wheel at freeway speeds. Its only there at freeway speeds and there's no pattern to it, though it does seem more pronounced on poorer quality roads. Someone indicated to me that this could be a problem in the steering column, and from what I gathered from your article here, it may be those plastic gears that are meant to break in an accident, is that correct? You say this is non-repairable, does that mean I would need to replace the column or could it be rebuilt? My car has an aftermarket steering wheel that was installed by the previous owner, so I have no idea what amount of force may have been used to remove the original. My car is also sans steering dampener, though I would happily put it back if it might make a difference.
Jazz, I was curious about something. When I switched from 15" wheels to 16" wheels, my car suddenly developed an intermittent shudder in the steering wheel at freeway speeds. Its only there at freeway speeds and there's no pattern to it, though it does seem more pronounced on poorer quality roads. Someone indicated to me that this could be a problem in the steering column, and from what I gathered from your article here, it may be those plastic gears that are meant to break in an accident, is that correct? You say this is non-repairable, does that mean I would need to replace the column or could it be rebuilt? My car has an aftermarket steering wheel that was installed by the previous owner, so I have no idea what amount of force may have been used to remove the original. My car is also sans steering dampener, though I would happily put it back if it might make a difference.
The steering column can't cause a shudder in the car. The opposite is true of course. More likely your problem is the alignment. Damper might be cause but without taking it for a spin it's hard to say.
BTW Jazz, Very nice write-up. I guess you're good for something afterall.
Its not a shudder in the car, though. Just the steering wheel itself, and only intermittently. The rest of the car feels perfect, its just the steering wheel.
Its not a shudder in the car, though. Just the steering wheel itself, and only intermittently. The rest of the car feels perfect, its just the steering wheel.
I'd check that alignment first. It could be the steering rack, tie rods, or ball joints but start with the cheaper problems first. It is unusual for a steering column to shake on its own. And considering it was fine until you changed wheels I'd go with the undercarriage first.
Originally posted by JazzMan: Ok, I've tuned this article up as much as I can, so barring any input or suggestions I'm going to consider it done. Thanks for stopping by! JazzMan
I'm glad you posted this, as I "explored" my column when I installed a new turn signal shaft and ended up "forcing" things. Now I can refer to this to take care of issues in a better manner next time.
Wow how did I miss this thread? Awesome work. I have a loose column I'm ready to replace the whole thing rather than mess with it. I've been in the column before and it's kind of like brain surgery except harder.
Oh and thanks Cliff, for lifting the pic per post limit. Threads like this would have been impossible before, and harder to read with people interrupting every few posts.
[This message has been edited by jscott1 (edited 12-24-2007).]
awesome. my tilt function is loose. i can just pull the wheel down without using the lever. i have nother column that looks like crap but works good, so i think i'll go tear them down and build one back up. thanks for this write up! i'm going to print the whole thing and get to work!
Tore down my tilt column today because it was loose. Everything went smooth, got those 4 torx bolts tightened with red loctite but when I put it all together I got some movement in the shaft. After looking at your pictures I think I put the preload cup on the upper bearing the wrong way (it fell out when I was struggling with the U-joint separation so I didn't notice how it was placed). Will have to check this tomorrow. Hope it's the culprint because the threads in my pivot pins won't last another pull (using M4 homebrew puller). The only thing I can't see in your pictures is how the black plastic ball bearing retainer (upper) is located. It's a little bit bigger in one end and when you put the bearings in you hold it with the bigger chamfered end up. Do you just lower it onto the shaft like this or flip it over using grease to hold the bearings in place?
Anyway thanks for making stuff like this... I know you've put lots of time making this guide. Every time I'm going to make a writeup I get so carried away that I forget to take any pictures and end up with before and after shots.
Thanks man!! This so informative. If you are not already a technical writer by trade, you should be! I have two wobbly columns. The one I took out 2 years ago and the one I put in as a replacement which at that time didn't wobble but does now. Now I know why and I agree about the small tab area on the lower plate. Loctite on those 4 torx bolts it is!
I decided to make these pdf's because the write up is better than the one in the Factory Service Manual. That and the fact that I need it due to my sector slide gear failing on me last night. I had to drop the column just to get the dang thing started. Now knowing that I have to go somewhere I should have pulled the Ignition switch off until it was fixed. Grrrrrr.
I am currently having a problem on my 88 Auto column. I have read through this thread but need some clarification. Here's my problem.
When I go to shut the car off - turn the ignition switch, it sometimes will not turn to the point where you can remove the key - like it is jammed. Sometimes it jams completely and I can not turn it in any direction or get the key out. If I wiggle the steering wheel and move the auto shifter back and forth, eventually it will release and I can get the key out. I believe there is a cable from the shifter to the column? if so, is there an adjustment that can be made or is the problem in the column in the ignition lock setup? Thanks in advance.
While you're in there if you wish you can also tighten up the reverse torx screws. Word to the wise MARK THE SHAFT that the steering wheel goes onto to indicate the UP position. I put mine on up side down after the ball joint popped loose at a 90º bend. So I got to tear down and rebuild the column twice!!!
[This message has been edited by DIY_Stu (edited 03-24-2009).]
Thanks a lot for this thread. I got so disgusted with floppy steering wheels (2 different steering columns) that I got rid of the tilt altogether. I've still got the columns though and will try to rebuild them.
Thanks a lot for this thread. I got so disgusted with floppy steering wheels (2 different steering columns) that I got rid of the tilt altogether. I've still got the columns though and will try to rebuild them.
you might consider sending them away to jazzman to rebuild if he still does them, it might be worth it
Check very carefully the linkage. Linkage can die as well because bad switch overloads it. If link is anything but straight then is bad. Do Not try to fix it. Replacement is only option. Check gear teeth to.
Bend then straighten make it weak.
NAPA or Dorman's HELP! at most auto part store.
Always replace ignition switch when you replace linkage! You do not want to replace the linkage twice.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
So I have to dismantle all the top end just to change the ignition Barrel? The chime switch had me thinking.... I have just had a problem appear where my Chime will not turn off, even while I'm driving??? I pulled it out for now, but I have changed the door switches and the one under the hood, I don't have anything at the rear. The lights all go out but the chime sings away, any ideas?
